THERMOMETER:
 
A digital rectal thermometer is a must.  Just scruff the ferret, insert
the thermometer in the pooper shooter for the allotted time, remove and
read the value.  Have paper towels nearby because taking a rectal
temperature in a ferret invariably causes them to poop.  RECORD the
value immediately!
 
A useful item, although a bit luxurious, are clear plastic thermometer
covers that can be found in better-stocked pharmacies, or directed
ordered.  You can use these covers if your ferret has the runs just to
reduce mess, but they aren't that necessary.  I cannot overemphasize
the importance of disinfecting the thermometer between uses; you are
introducing an object directly into the ferret's gastrointestinal system
and it is extremely important to make sure you are not pushing something
inside that will make matters worse.  Cleaning the thermometer between
uses is ABSOLUTELY necessary, and I recommend a 10 parts water to 1 part
bleach solution; just dip the thermometer in the bleach for a minute.  If
you suspect your ferret is contagious, make sure to clean ALL parts of
the thermometer, including the handle.  Be careful with the thermometer;
while most digital ones are watertight and can withstand a minute or two
in the bleach solution, some can't and will fail almost immediately.
When buying your thermometer, make sure the label says it is watertight.
 
Small fluctuations in body temperature are normal, and even healthy
ferret body temperatures will fluctuate depending on activity, sleep,
time of day, state of hydration, and other factors.  Exercise can
exaggerate body temperature and a deep sleep can cause it to decrease, so
pay attention to the activity pattern before you take the temperature and
it will save you worry later.  All you are really looking for is a sudden
spike or drop in body temperature that remains more or less constant over
a number of hours.  In such cases, call or see your vet immediately!  Big
temperature differences are much more important than small ones, so don't
obsess about a few degrees one-way or the other; it's the pattern and
trends that are important in the long run.
 
LIGHTS:
 
An otoscope (ear-looker) is likewise valuable for looking into ears
(duh), but after popping off the cone, it is great as a light source
for looking into the mouth, the eyes, and even into the nose.  It is so
bright that I have used it to search for ticks and fleas.  These used
to be very expensive and hard to obtain, but I have lately noticed
inexpensive versions in better-stocked pharmacies.  It is somewhat of
a luxury item, but once you start using one, you will start depending
on it.
 
If you can't find an otoscope, or justify buying one, a POWERFUL penlight
or small flashlight is a suitable alternative, especially when looking at
larger areas of the body.  For example, if you suspect your ferret may
have adrenal problems, shine the flashlight onto the base of their tail
or between their shoulders and look for thinning hair.  Use a healthy
ferret for comparison; if the ferret is not in the middle of the seasonal
molt, the light shouldn't illuminate much skin when the fur is in a
normal position, but with early adrenal ferrets the skin will shine
through sharply.  Also, a flashlight is the best method for looking for
ticks and fleas.
 
Sometimes you just need more light, or even a third hand, and in such
cases a small gooseneck desk lamp is useful.  Some people have reported
the use of illuminated magnifiers, like the ones used for hobbies and
crafts, useful for those with "old eyes" or other vision problems.  Be
careful with desk lamps; they can get hot and a crisped nose and wilted
whiskers is not defined as "ferret fun."
 
Bob C
[Posted in FML issue 4403]