THERMOMETER: A digital rectal thermometer is a must. Just scruff the ferret, insert the thermometer in the pooper shooter for the allotted time, remove and read the value. Have paper towels nearby because taking a rectal temperature in a ferret invariably causes them to poop. RECORD the value immediately! A useful item, although a bit luxurious, are clear plastic thermometer covers that can be found in better-stocked pharmacies, or directed ordered. You can use these covers if your ferret has the runs just to reduce mess, but they aren't that necessary. I cannot overemphasize the importance of disinfecting the thermometer between uses; you are introducing an object directly into the ferret's gastrointestinal system and it is extremely important to make sure you are not pushing something inside that will make matters worse. Cleaning the thermometer between uses is ABSOLUTELY necessary, and I recommend a 10 parts water to 1 part bleach solution; just dip the thermometer in the bleach for a minute. If you suspect your ferret is contagious, make sure to clean ALL parts of the thermometer, including the handle. Be careful with the thermometer; while most digital ones are watertight and can withstand a minute or two in the bleach solution, some can't and will fail almost immediately. When buying your thermometer, make sure the label says it is watertight. Small fluctuations in body temperature are normal, and even healthy ferret body temperatures will fluctuate depending on activity, sleep, time of day, state of hydration, and other factors. Exercise can exaggerate body temperature and a deep sleep can cause it to decrease, so pay attention to the activity pattern before you take the temperature and it will save you worry later. All you are really looking for is a sudden spike or drop in body temperature that remains more or less constant over a number of hours. In such cases, call or see your vet immediately! Big temperature differences are much more important than small ones, so don't obsess about a few degrees one-way or the other; it's the pattern and trends that are important in the long run. LIGHTS: An otoscope (ear-looker) is likewise valuable for looking into ears (duh), but after popping off the cone, it is great as a light source for looking into the mouth, the eyes, and even into the nose. It is so bright that I have used it to search for ticks and fleas. These used to be very expensive and hard to obtain, but I have lately noticed inexpensive versions in better-stocked pharmacies. It is somewhat of a luxury item, but once you start using one, you will start depending on it. If you can't find an otoscope, or justify buying one, a POWERFUL penlight or small flashlight is a suitable alternative, especially when looking at larger areas of the body. For example, if you suspect your ferret may have adrenal problems, shine the flashlight onto the base of their tail or between their shoulders and look for thinning hair. Use a healthy ferret for comparison; if the ferret is not in the middle of the seasonal molt, the light shouldn't illuminate much skin when the fur is in a normal position, but with early adrenal ferrets the skin will shine through sharply. Also, a flashlight is the best method for looking for ticks and fleas. Sometimes you just need more light, or even a third hand, and in such cases a small gooseneck desk lamp is useful. Some people have reported the use of illuminated magnifiers, like the ones used for hobbies and crafts, useful for those with "old eyes" or other vision problems. Be careful with desk lamps; they can get hot and a crisped nose and wilted whiskers is not defined as "ferret fun." Bob C [Posted in FML issue 4403]