Q; "...can you describe the books you make for your ferrets?  I think they
    are great ideas, and want to know how you do it."
 
A: I think there is a 1-900 number listed on an alt news site that lets
   you call in to find out "how I do it."
 
Each ferret gets two books; a temporary day-to-day book, and a permanent
book done after the sweet little thing has crossed the bridge.  The first
book is more like a journal or diary, the second book is more like a
biography.  The "journal" can be almost anything; a 3-ringed binder, a
composition book, or a blank book.  I prefer "field/surveyor/cruiser
notebooks" that are waterproof, which prevents it from being destroyed if
the little booger urinates on it (or you accidently drop it in the the
commode when you are moving stuff, but thats a different story).  You can
check the phone book for surveyor's equipment, or contact the J.L.  Darling
Co in Tacoma, WA and ask about "Rite in the Rain" products.  They come in
different sizes, some bound, others in minature 6-ringed notebooks.  I used
to use the bound "Cruiser's Transit Book" No.  340-F, but now prefer to use
the punched pages that fit 6-ringed binders (5 by 8 inch), so I can add or
subtract pages as needed.  These books cost more than the typical $1
composition book, but because they are designed to take a beating in the
field, they hold up very well to years of usage around small animals,
poopie and various liquids, provided you use pencil or waterprook ink.
 
Each week, I record the ferret's weight, health, and write down funny
incidents.  For example, today I wrote in Chrys' book the following: "Pulse
and temperature normal, 2.2 lbs, fur thick, .5 to 2 cm of sub-q fat in
abdominal area, alert, playful, eyes/ears clear, stools and urine normal.
Overall great health.  Today Chrys really cracked me up.  He managed to
tear a hole in some green wrapping paper and it became stuck about halfway
down his abdomen.  He was running around, thinking someone was getting him,
all the while looking like some sort of bizzare hula dancer.  Soon, his
general excitement got Carbone, Tui, G.W.  and Silly dancing around him and
the bumbling brothers were crashing around the room for the next hour."
 
I record every vet visit (and cost), each vacination, each injury, each
illness, and each "event," such as trips to the park, or visiting friends
(which I do in order to trace disease, should I think something is being
spread around).  I have a hole-punched clasp envelope in the back of the
binder to hold things like ribbons, old rabies tags, name tags, etc.).  I
try to take a picture of each ferret every couple of months, more
frequently when young or sick, which are stored in the book.
 
After a death, I write down my final thoughts, record the vet's cause of
death, and ask for their old vet records.  Cards, letters. etc. are also
included.  Then I take all the documents, photos, etc., and scan them in.
I also transcribe all my notes into a word processing program (I actually
do this every couple of months on all the ferrets, so it doesn't take long
to finish one out.) I have a basic format to create chapters which is
essentially the same for each ferret.  The first chapter is the ferret's
name, such as "Foster," and I tell where I got them, etc.  Chapter 2 is the
life history of the ferret, made up of all the stories I have recorded in
the journal.  Chapter 3 is the medical history, made as detailed as
possible, including specific medicines, dosages and results.  Chapter 4
deals with the death of the ferret, and chapter 5 is my specific memories
and feelings.  Once everything is typed in, I add photos and documents to
break up the text or to illustrate specific things, such as a picture of
Bear's "nekkid belly" with a description of his adrenal surgery.  The
scanned in medical records are an appendix at the end of the book.
 
Once I get everything the way I like it, I 1) have it burned to a CD for
safekeeping, and 2) print it on an appropriate paper.  I use a high
quality, acid-free paper, 8.5 by 11 inches.  I only use the middle 6 by 9
inches, so I can trim the edges after sewing the spine.  To do this, I
cover the top and bottom sheets with typing paper, then place a thick sheet
of masonite on each side and clamp together tightly, so the spine sticks
out about 1/4 inch.  Then, drill 1/32 inch holes, about 1/4 inch apart,
down the length of the spine so the final stiches are about 1/8 of an inch
from the planned top and bottom of the book.  While the sheets are still
clamped together, sew the spine together with high quality thick thread.
Cut a piece of acid-free linen tape to cover the spine and glue in place.
Finally, trim the paper edges to the desired size; a local printer can
probably trim it for you at a low cost.
 
To make the cover boards, use a piece of high quality cardboard (acid-free
matt board works great); cut a single piece that is 1/4 of an inch taller
than the trimed edges of your book, then cut two cover boards from this
piece that are 1/8 inch wider than your book.  Cut a third piece the exact
width of the book spine.  Lay these three boards (front-spine-back) on top
of a suitable cloth cover, cut so it will overlap the boards by about an
inch.  The cover can be a duplicate of the design on their sleep sack,
something you think is nice, or something you have embroidered or otherwise
decorated.  The inside of the cloth cover is covered with a coat of spray
glue, and the boards are carefully placed down so the spine is separated
from the front and back by about 1/8 inch.  When you are satisfied the
boards are perfect, fold over the cloth cover, taking care to make smooth
folds in the corners.
 
To attach the cover to the book, you two sheets of paper that is thicker
than your text pages.  This paper is trimmed to be exactly as tall as the
book, but twice as wide.  I usually have some sort of printed ferret design
on one side of the paper.  Place your book on top of a sheet of this paper
so the outer edges are flush, then use a pencil to mark the edhe of the
spine.  Fold the paper at this point, keeping the design inside, and make
two.  CAREFULLY paint a 1/4 inch line of glue on the spine edge of the
book's front page, and attach the folded paper so the fold is at the spine.
Put a sheet of newspaper between the cover sheet and the book, and spray it
well with glue (bookbinder's paste is much better).  Now, glue the sheet
down to the cover, and THEN spray glue on the back cover sheet and glue
that in place.  The spine is not glued down.  Clamp the entire book between
the masonite, with wax paper between the cover boards and cover sheets, as
well as between the cover sheet and front/back page, and let dry for a
couple of days before opening.  I routinely hot iron the inside and cover
of each book when first removed from the clamps.  If you have ANY
difficulty, use a store-bought book as a guide.  With everything, practice!
 
Since I donate my ferret's bodies to science, I don't have a grave or urn
to visit, but I find these books are a far better subsitute anyway.  I try
to make each book somewhat unique, and have started to make my own paper
and embossing my own leather covers.  If you like making such books, there
are scores of bookbinding sites on the web, with links to suppliers.
 
Bob C and 20 Mo' Fertbinders
[Posted in FML issue 2521]