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Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:06:47 -0400
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While the majority of this post appeared right on the money.  I thought I
would share some of what I have been told in my too expensive education.
To all of you who have pets with fleas, my condolences - they are a pain.
 
>From:    Dick Bossart <[log in to unmask]>
>Subject: Re: Fleas
>1. Don't use a dog or cat flea shampoo; too strong for the ferrets.  If
>the shampoo says kitten safe, it's probably OK for ferrets.  Follow the
>directions on the label.  You'll have to repeat in about 10 days to get
>any of the eggs that might hatch (they stick to the fur quite well.)
 
Flea shampoos are good for quick knock-down of heavy infestations, but
there is no residual activity, so you must follow-up with other products
like a powder, foam, or spray.  Many vets have found Imidacloprid
(Advantage) or Fipronil (Front-line spray and Top Spot spot-on) to be
highly effective for both killing fleas on contact and
reducing/preventing/eliminating reinfestation.  Both products are by
prescription and I believe that their use on ferrets is extra-label.
 
Actually, flea eggs don't stick to the fur.  They fall off so that the
flea larvae can hatch (1-10 days).  The larvae then feed on dried bood and
organic debris that they find in the environment.  They are positively
geotropic and negatively phototropic (ie, deeper into the carpet and away
from light).  The larvae then go through 2 molts within 5-11 days (under
ideal conditions) into the pupal phase, which lasts 5-140 days.  This
pupal phase is the most difficult to eliminate with pesticides and is why
retreatment has to occur.
 
>4. Fleas spend most of their lives off of the animal; on rugs carpets,
>furniture.... Our vet sells a flea spay called Vet Kem area spray...
>Is is ferret safe.
 
Actually, fleas spend all of their adult lives (greater than 100 days) on
the animal (for food and protection).  Newly hatched adults that do not
find a host cannot live longer than 12 days unfed (ideal laboratory
conditions) and probably live a lot shorter time (several hours to days in
th real world).  The fleas that you see jumping (when you are petting your
pet) are actually new adults jumping onto you or the pet from the floor or
furniture, not off of the animal.  "Bombs" and foggers are probably not as
effective as an area spray because "bombs" and foggers concentrate
centrally and do not get under furniture or baseboards where flea larvae
hide.  Vet Kem area spray (probably Siphotrol Plus II Premise Spray) is
considered relatively safe for people and animals, but exposure should
still be limited.
 
Finally, although it sounds like I am tooting my future profession's horn,
you are likely to have better luck if you consult your vet concerning your
flea problems.  Vets are supposed to understand the life-cycle of the flea
and have access to the safer and most effective compounds for treating your
pet and your home.  Some of the products that you can buy over the counter
are just plain dangerous to your pets (not to mention you and your kids).
 
******************************
Sean D. Sawyer V'00
University of Pennsylvania
School of Veterinary Medicine
 
[log in to unmask]
******************************
 
[Moderator's note: Advantage and Frontline, as far as I know, are sold
primarily through vets only due to manufacturer's policy.  They are not
classified as drugs, thus they do not *legally* require a perscription.
The idea is that for best results vets should explain proper use to
clients.  That being said, I have seen both sold over-the-counter and/or
mail order.
 
So, my question is: if something isn't labelled as a drug, can use still
be considered extra-label?   BIG]
[Posted in FML issue 2502]

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