Regarding normal weight loss patterns: Intact ferrets have a normal weight loss and gain pattern that follows the seasons. Normally they put on weight in the winter and lose it in the spring and summer. The difference in weight can be as much as 40% of the total body weight. However, in neutered animals, especially those neutered pre-weaning, the weight fluctuations are generally much less dramatic. After they lose their baby fat, they tend to have only a 10-20% fluctuation in weight from winter to summer. If you are seeing prominent "hips" or ribs or backbone in your ferret that are obviously noticeable, then there is probably a problem. The most common reason in ferrets over 3 that we see the bones being prominent like this in an otherwise happy and healthy pet is because of loss of muscle tone due to adrenal disease. The muscles are not as thick as they used to be due to an overabundance of hormones (each ferret is different, but it may be an over abundance of estrogen like hormones or corticosteroids). This lack of muscle tone will also lead to a "pot belly appearance" as the abdominal muscle sag. The spleens of ferrets over 3 years of age are also typically enlarged and this will add to the appearance of an enlarged saggy abdomen. There are other conditions that can cause loss of body condition such as foreign bodies in the stomach, lymphoma and other disease, but these ferrets frequently are showing signs that they are ill. I HIGHLY recommend having all ferrets over 3 years of age examined every 6 months by a qualified vet rather than just annually because disease problems, especially cancer is so common in the American ferret, and early intervention is the key to a longer life. Regarding Bedding for ferret litter boxes: I am not a fan of kitty litter, as many ferrets will burrow in it and coat their hair with it and get a dry, "Kitty Litter Coat" that accumulates dirt. It is also not very biodegradible, and with 25 pets at home, I use a compost bin and need to have as little trash as possible. I am also not a fan of corn cob litter, as it is not incredibly absorbant, the wetness stays at the top and at least in other animals, such as birds, the fungal spores that it carries (Aspergilla in particular) can be a health risk. After looking at lots of products and using them all, I have come to the conclusion that the pelleted products are the best for absorbency, odor control and biodegradibility. The problem is that the pet stores haven't caught onto this idea yet and some of these products can be hard to find. Check with pet stores, feed stores, and local vets for these products. They all have their pros and cons, some people like the smell of one better over the other. The drawback that some people have is that they are more expensive than the shavings or kitty litter. But the plus is that you don't have to change them as often (just scoop out the poop), and they control odor much better, they don't damage the haircoat, they are biodegradible (we aren't adding more junk to the landfills) and they generally are using recycled materials or otherwise non used materials. They are also excellent for rabbits and rodents as they are softer on the feet, draw the moisture away from the top and are digestible in case the pet wants to eat it (which they usually don't). Some of the products that we have used and liked are: Cellu-Dri (cellulose bedding, my favorite, made for laboratories by Sheppard Paper Company, Kalamazoo MI..check with a local laboratory facility) Cat Country Litter or Critter Country (the same stuff, just different packaging and size of pellet, Cat Country is usually cheaper...it is a wheat grass pellet...probably the most easily found product in our area) Gentle Touch - a pelleted aspen product...very fresh smell...the favorite amongst our clients. Yesterday's News - recycled paper product There are many others available, but look for pelleted products and be conservative with their use and the cost will not be prohibitive. Susan A. Brown, D.V.M. [Posted in FML issue 0764]