WASTES AND CLEANING: A discussion regarding hazardous biological wastes, their disinfection, and disposal is in order. You can be a wonderful ferret nurse, but unless you can control the spread of possible biological contamination, your efforts could be wasted. It is far better to err on the side of angels than to ignore a problem and find it returning with a vengeance in other ferrets. There is one other consideration when it comes to the disposal of biological contaminants, and that is evolution. Evolution doesn't work well when germs are unaffected, nor does it apply if they are wiped out; when it is a problem is when almost all the germs are killed, but a few tough ones survive. That can happen thousands of times with no discernable result, but sooner or later, a surviving germ can produce enough super germs to really make our lives hell. This has already happened to strains of germs that normally attack humans; who hasn't heard of antibiotic-resistant flesh-eating bacteria? Strains of tuberculosis, Salmonella and E. coli are already plaguing hospital corridors, and worse is yet to come. We can help prevent this catastrophe if we follow a few simple rules: 1. ALWAYS give the COMPLETE dose of antibiotics, even if the ferret seems to be getting better. If a ferret fights taking their antibiotics, it is pretty easy to stop giving them when the ferret starts acting better, thinking the worst is over. The problem is that the dose may not have killed all the bacteria, and those slightly resistant may live to develop later into a super bug. 2. If using a disinfectant, always use the recommended concentration. Don't try to save a few pennies by watering it down. All you may be doing is helping to breed the next super bug. 3. If using a disinfectant, always use a fresh batch. Some disinfectants, such as bleach, lose potency on exposure to heat, oxygen or light, others to organics. Don't try to save pennies, just mix a fresh batch for each use; it is well worth it. With that said, disposing of and cleaning up from infectious wastes may require care, but it is hardly difficult. For paper wastes, litter, and other disposables, I use a medium-sized kitchen-style plastic trashcan lined with TWO plastic garbage bags. When the trashcan is HALF full, I tie an overhand knot in the inner bag, and then tie the outer bag with a plastic tie. If the wastes are especially infectious, I spray bleach solution on the outside of the bag and let it "soak" for 5 minutes before transporting it outside to the garbage. These wastes are not transported through or brought into the living spaces of other ferrets. Be wary of the outside waste cans; make sure the bags are protected from wild or domestic scavengers or you may be spreading infectious waste around the neighborhood. I use bungee cords to prevent the lids from being removed. I also have a large diaper pail I use to disinfect objects. The pail is filled with a household chorine bleach solution (see below), and all suitable objects are dipped in the pail for five minutes. I use the same strength bleach solution in a spray bottle to clean the table and cage, wiping the bleach off with paper toweling after allowing it to stand for 5 minutes. Sometimes an item cannot stand up to the bleach treatment, but my attitude is to periodically replace them and consider the money well spent. Beach is the BEST disinfectant you can buy because it is easy to obtain, is extremely cheap, it is non-toxic in the solution strength used, and it is pretty effective. You can use various other commercial products (Lysol is good), but not a single one of them is better than good old bleach unless you have an identified problem with a few specific microorganisms such as cryptosporidia (for specific infections consult your vet for advice on the best disinfectant). I recommend bleach for general cleaning and disinfecting, and hospital grade germicides for those rare times when bleach-resistant germs are causing trouble. Consult your vet for the best choice for your specific problem. Bob C [Posted in FML issue 4412]