Hi-- I love the Midwest cages. I would still urge you to look at the Martin's. Thye have cages built for ferrets and don't require any special retrofits or other considerations that a Midwest cage will. I'm a Midwest cage lover and have standardized most of my cages on one of their two models. The wooden floors and the plastic floors. Catalog prices are around $100 to $125. + shipping. Shipping will be at least $35. In the store, they are $195 to $225. Sometimes you get lucky and can get a cage second hand through the paper for $50. Skip the ferret adaptations, it's a waste of money. Our ferrets never used the ladders or turned them into toys. They climbed up and down the side of the cage. 6 yrs later, we just let them get between the levels by either climbing up and down the side, or climbing into the hammock and then climing onto the shelves. The shelves are too narrow for a ferret. You will need at least three, lined up to make a floor. Have 4 and you can create two seperate floors. If you are handy, build your own floors. You will need to hang hammocks between the levels so that if your ferret falls, it won't it another shelf on the way down or go straight to the floor. A ferret can break it's neck or a bone from a fall like that. There is a ferretry on the list here who sells a retrofit kit to make a floor suitable for a ferret for $50. Another who makes replacement floors for around $35. (We cracked one of the plastic floors and had to toss it.) We use big pillow cases between the levels and hang them with shower hooks. I clip litter boxes into the corner of each level. I use quick lock and croc lock dishes that attach to the side of the cage. I use large guinea pig sized water bottles. I tie them to the sides of the cage with mini bungie cords. Dan, who cleans all our cages prefers the wooden floor to the plastic floor. It is easier to vacuum out and catches less food and crap. Dried crap can be knocked off or scraped off with a putty knife. the plastic cage floors are tougher to clean. The cage must be lifted out of the tray to clean it correctly. Sometimes it must be wiped down by hand, or scrubbed, rather than just vacuumed and a few spots hand scraped. Ferrets will kick everything out of the cage. You will be vacuuming and sweeping around it daily. Some cages have gaps that must be closed so a ferret cant' stick a head or a paw int to the small space and get it stuck. Plain white plastic ties availabe from any hobby or computer shop will do the trick. Ferrets have been strangled by trying to squeeze into the bars. We like the wheeled cages. We like the fact the cage can be knocked down and stored in a space the size of a small suitcase. We have traveled with our Midwest cage. We can set one up or tear it down in 30 minutes. If portability is an issue, then a Midwest cage is still a good choice. They aren't made for ferrets, and it takes a bit more work than buying a cage made for a ferret's needs. Drop me a line if you have more questions. KG [Posted in FML issue 3678]