When it's necessary to change cagemates, do it "slowly". Ferrets are very adaptable as long as the change is not abrupt. The first step is to put the two cages side by side so that the "moved" ferret can still smell and see his former cagemates. The original cage should not be moved from it's usual location. If there's not room for both cages in or very close to (same side of the room) the original location, move the original cage to a new location, with the original cagemates for a week before switching ferrets to the new cage. The ferret that doesn't like the new guy still may not like him "next door" but it is not as stressful as having the new guy intruding on "his" cage. Over time (months) the ferret may even learn to tolerate the new guy a little better if the cages remain side by side. You can swap out the ferrets that get along with the new guy. It needn't be a daily swap. Once or twice a week would be ok, as long as the cages are touching, or almost touching. This will prevent the ferrets that are being switched from becoming "strangers" to the ferret that is not being switched. You may eventually be able to integrate them by allowing supervised out times together. Even then, there will be squabbles. Like human children, ferrets will often get these settled quicker & easier without human intervention. When the fight gets serious, break it up. A "fight" isn't serious until tails get bushy regardless of the noises they make. If the squabble is fairly even (both ferrets returning to the fray, neither one at a discernable disadvantage) the squabble can be allowed to continue a little farther. BUT bear in mind, there has been some serious speculation that the hormones produced by "fight or flight" situations may have some bearing on the development of stress-caused gastric ulcers, to which ferrets over age 4 are especially susceptible. Cover your hand with a towel and reach for the bushy tail to break up a fight. Rapidly (without yanking) pull one ferret out, keeping in mind they can turn around very quickly. Don't stick your hand between their heads, you WILL get bit. Tossing the towel over the squabblers may get you bit through the towel since they only feel something touching them, searching for a scruff to grab. They don't know it's you. After several squabbles, they will recognize that someone grabbing their tail (which is not a ferret fighting technique) is you and they'll be a lot less likely to nip at you as you pull them out of a fight. DON'T yank away when a ferret bites. You'll only tear the skin worse. Yell, then take a deep breath and speak calmly and encouragingly as you place thumb and forefinger behind the canine teeth and press to pry the teeth open. BE CAREFUL not to allow the prying fingers to slip into the teeth as the mouth closes... the ferret is STILL angry/frightened. DON'T discipline a ferret for biting you when you break up a fight. They don't understand discipline that way. You had it coming. You interfered in his affairs. That's the only way they are capable of understanding it. The ONLY reason ferrets bite is fear. Biting "due to pain" is actually fear of the pain being made worse. Biting "in anger" is actually fear of loss of territory or dominance. "Old Wives" cure for bites: soaking the bite in kerosene (lamp oil) for 5 minutes will prevent most of the soreness. (But a bite in a finger's knuckle is gonna hurt & swell anyway.) Debi Christy Ferrets First Foster Home [Posted in FML issue 3474]