[sent in two parts -- combined here]
 
>From: Kim VanderLaan <[log in to unmask]>
>Frankly, I've had some trouble wondering why breeders can't keep kits
>alive by hand-raising them.
 
I think may people have a hard time keeping the kits at the right
temperature.  I have heard of them being too warm and having heat exaustion
or being too cold.  Being cold, they don't move as much or eat at all so
they starve.  Also - I think many are over feeding and the kits aspirate
(inhale the liquids being given - from liquids comming back up or while
going down the first time).  It is also possible that the formula is not
being mixed correctly as there is nothing for ferrets - KMR and the like
have cat & dog mixing instructions on the labels.
 
>It always seems to come down to feeding (as opposed to housing, warmth,
>etc.).  Is it the method of delivery or the formula that makes this so
>hard?  Or is it something different?
>I use syringes without needles or nipples for very young animals and MAY
>use a nipple later on, depends on the animal.  I also tube-feed when
>necessary . . .
 
With ferret kits, they have strange mouth set ups.  The nipple is designed
to be inserted into the mouth and go to the back of the throat.  I am not
sure, but I think that placement of milk on the tounge is not swallowed,
but it runs down the back of the throat causing aspiration.  I may be wrong
on this one - anybody out there that "really" knows.  That may be why
syringe feedings are not really successful in ferrets.  I had two 3 week
old kits that would not use a bottle or syringe, so I used a tube (inserted
into the stomach) to feed them.  They did super well with that and at about
4 weeks took to a bottle and tried mush food.  I have never tried tube
feeding with newborns.
 
>For formula, I use species-specific formulas that have been developed for
>use by rehabbers.  The skunk formula is as close as I have to a weasel or
>ferret, but it should work fine.  Formulas are usually made up of one or a
>combination of the following (all by Pet Ag): Esbilac, KMR, and/or
>Multi-Milk.
 
We have information on ZooLogic for ferrets.  It is a combination of two
different formulas mixed together.  I will post the info when I dig it up!
It was given to me at a ferret show some years back.
 
>There is also a new Benebac-like product available for newborn baby
>animals who did not receive colostrum.
 
Do you know what this is?  As Bill, said - this may be a leading problem.
 
>From:    Richard and Katharine <[log in to unmask]>
>The following information is from "Rehabilitation of North American Wild
>Mammals: Feeding and Nutrition" by Debbie Marcum.
 
Wow!  This sounds like a great book - can it be purchased at a local
bookstore?  What other kinds of information does it have in it?
 
>You can substitute an oral electrolyte solution for the water if
>dehydration is a concern.  A tiny pinch of salt will also help the
>electrolytes.
 
My vet also tells me that for the first feeding - if the kits have been not
fed for a few hours - to add a drop of Karo Syrup or Honey to the mix as
well.  He says it will give them the little boost of energy they need to
actually nurse.
 
Speaking of electrolytes . . . when I was training horses, we used to give
the show horses electrolytes in thier water.  It was a powder that you
mixed with water.  It is made by Farnam and comes in different flavors -
orange, cherry & apple.  Any idea if it is safe for ferrets?  If mixed
differently - as the mixing instructions are for horses.  Any ideas?  I
know it is much cheaper than Pedialyte and keeps for more than 24 hours.
 
>It is very important that they not be overfed, but they need feeding every
>2-3 hours.  Their tummies should feel full, but not hard.  Once they are
>larger, a syringe can be used.  There are tiny little attachments for
>syringes which should fit into their mouths.  I've seen them used with
>baby mice and they're so tiny I'm afraid when I hold them.  I've also seen
>the tiny baby mice tube fed.
 
I have always been told that ferret kits need to be fed on the hour.  The
12 I tried to hand raise as mom had no milk even after many tries to
produce some (& no other jill to adopt the kits to).  That was sucessful
for a day or two.  I personally got mentally & physically exausted.  I was
up all hours - every second I was feeding & bum wiping.  By the time I was
done feeding them all it was time to start over!
 
Another really interesting thing is that ferret kits have "transparent"
bellies.  You can actually see the milk in there.  It is really neat.
 
Do you know where you can get the tubes?  The really tiny ones?  My vet
gave me two medium sized ones, but I am hoping there are smaller ones.
 
>It is normally also necessary to stimulate them to go to the bathroom when
>they are very tiny.  I'm not sure if this applies to ferrets or not.
 
Yep!  They do start to go on thier own, but I am not quite sure when that
is.  It is before their eyes open.  The best way I have found to do this
(ferret mom's lick them & I ain't doing that!) is to dip a cotten ball in
warm water (warm not hot) and squeeze out the excess.  Wipe the kit's bum
in one direction until it goes.  Then wipe it up again to make sure it is
clean.
 
>I will admit that I've had a couple of deaths, but you can't always save
>every one.
 
That is a great sucess rate!  Many people don't realise the time it takes
to hand raise a baby animal.  Mom's do so much more work then lie there and
let the babies nurse!
 
>From:    William Killian - Zen and the Art of Ferrets
>Ferrets seem less mature at birth than other baby animals and develop
>slower
 
To me, ferret kits look like they are still little fetuses when born.  They
curl right up in a fetal position and their heads are the biggest are of
their bodies.  It seems like they are born early & then mature and grow out
 
of the womb.  Sounds weird, but that is what they look like to me.  I know
Bill often says they look like little popcorn shrimp - which they do.
 
>From:    David & Tracy Browne <[log in to unmask]>
>She had the formula mixed in a cup and then dipped the end of a small
>paintbrush in it.  The brush "held" the formula and when she held it up
>the bat's mouth - he sucked the milk out of it.  He could get three or
>four swallows out of each brushload before she had to "reload".
 
That sounds like a good idea - has anybody tried it with ferrets?
 
>From:    Sukie Crandall <[log in to unmask]>
>That's how I knew about the (often very useful) trick of placing cloth in
>front of a syringe of dropper since it gives something which actually can
>be suckled so helps with the individuals who can't handle a dropper or
>syringe directly.
 
I hadn't heard of this method - only a soaked hankie in the formula.  I
tried that & couldn't get it to work.  How does it work & how does the
dropper behind the cloth work?
 
>The reason I asked for people to share this information PUBLICALLY is
>because it is the sort of info which is needed QUICKLY when it is needed
>so it is useful for a good number of people read about it and file it in
>their memories just in case.
 
This is an excellent idea.  We do need to have information available to the
shelters and rescues that get surrenders with kits - or that get calls for
help on motherless kits - as well as for breeders.
 
Amy Flemming
[log in to unmask]
Flemming Farms/Weasel Watchers Ferret Rescue - Michigan, USA
Breeding for Quality Ferrets/Helping Needy Weasels
American, Australian, German, and New Zealand bloodlines
Come see us at http://www.geocities.com/heartland/ranch/9521
 
"For every action, there is an equal and opposite criticism"
[Posted in FML issue 2589]