When it's necessary to change cagemates, do it "slowly".  Ferrets are very
adaptable as long as the change is not abrupt.
 
The first step is to put the two cages side by side so that the "moved"
ferret can still smell and see his former cagemates.  The original cage
should not be moved from it's usual location.  If there's not room for both
cages in or very close to (same side of the room) the original location,
move the original cage to a new location, with the original cagemates for a
week before switching ferrets to the new cage.
 
The ferret that doesn't like the new guy still may not like him "next door"
but it is not as stressful as having the new guy intruding on "his" cage.
Over time (months) the ferret may even learn to tolerate the new guy a
little better if the cages remain side by side.
 
You can swap out the ferrets that get along with the new guy.  It needn't
be a daily swap.  Once or twice a week would be ok, as long as the cages
are touching, or almost touching.  This will prevent the ferrets that are
being switched from becoming "strangers" to the ferret that is not being
switched.
 
You may eventually be able to integrate them by allowing supervised out
times together.  Even then, there will be squabbles.  Like human children,
ferrets will often get these settled quicker & easier without human
intervention.  When the fight gets serious, break it up.
 
A "fight" isn't serious until tails get bushy regardless of the noises they
make.  If the squabble is fairly even (both ferrets returning to the fray,
neither one at a discernable disadvantage) the squabble can be allowed to
continue a little farther.  BUT bear in mind, there has been some serious
speculation that the hormones produced by "fight or flight" situations may
have some bearing on the development of stress-caused gastric ulcers, to
which ferrets over age 4 are especially susceptible.
 
Cover your hand with a towel and reach for the bushy tail to break up a
fight.  Rapidly (without yanking) pull one ferret out, keeping in mind they
can turn around very quickly.  Don't stick your hand between their heads,
you WILL get bit.
 
Tossing the towel over the squabblers may get you bit through the towel
since they only feel something touching them, searching for a scruff to
grab.  They don't know it's you.  After several squabbles, they will
recognize that someone grabbing their tail (which is not a ferret fighting
technique) is you and they'll be a lot less likely to nip at you as you
pull them out of a fight.
 
DON'T yank away when a ferret bites.  You'll only tear the skin worse.
Yell, then take a deep breath and speak calmly and encouragingly as you
place thumb and forefinger behind the canine teeth and press to pry the
teeth open.  BE CAREFUL not to allow the prying fingers to slip into the
teeth as the mouth closes... the ferret is STILL angry/frightened.
 
DON'T discipline a ferret for biting you when you break up a fight.  They
don't understand discipline that way.  You had it coming.  You interfered
in his affairs.  That's the only way they are capable of understanding it.
 
The ONLY reason ferrets bite is fear.  Biting "due to pain" is actually
fear of the pain being made worse.  Biting "in anger" is actually fear of
loss of territory or dominance.
 
"Old Wives" cure for bites: soaking the bite in kerosene (lamp oil) for
5 minutes will prevent most of the soreness.  (But a bite in a finger's
knuckle is gonna hurt & swell anyway.)
 
Debi Christy
Ferrets First Foster Home
[Posted in FML issue 3474]