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From:
David & Tracy Browne <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Tue, 10 Aug 1999 07:07:50 -0500
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Hi!  I'm posting for a friend of mine, Susan Malone, who is a breeder in
Tulsa.  Her outgoing mail is not working correctly, so she asked me to
post for her.  You may contact her at: [log in to unmask]  Here's
a short "bio" on her breeding program.....
 
First off, I have worked with, had, trained, rescued and studied ferrets
for 15 years.  When I decided to breed myself, I sought out top quality
breeders who has the same ideals, beliefs and honest love for ferrets as
I and whose lines were bred for health, temperament, personality,
intelligence, size and colors... in that order.  And I have striven to
continue these qualities.
 
With every litter, we strive to continue to improve the breed.  I am
dedicated to trying to help repopulate American pet ferrets with stronger,
healthier lines, as well as provide rescue, care and adoptions for all
ferrets.
 
I know the bloodlines and health of all my ferrets going back several
generations and all had low ratios of health related problems.  Many of my
ferrets come from lines which have been prevalent in shows and won many
awards.
 
I have a 20x20 foot main ferret room where all adult ferrets take shifts
for romp and play times, and a separate 8x10 area for sick ferrets,
pregnant jills, nursing moms and young kits.  This area is complete with
heat lamps and a special solid pen for birthing and very young kits.  All
ferrets have a minimum cage space of 3 square feet per ferret, and all
cages are filled with hammocks, toys, blankies etc.  Each and every ferret,
be it a breeder, pet, kit or rescue is treated as if I only have 2 or 3.
Before one of my ferrets is adopted, I screen and interview potential new
owners, check with their vets, when possible do a home visit, and also
have a detailed contract that must be signed regarding the ferrets care.
I turn down more "applicants" than I approve.
 
I will ship, but prefer to ship only on non-stop, direct flights to ensure
as little stress as possible.
 
I do not allow kits to leave until a minimum of 12 weeks local,and 14 weeks
if shipping.
 
I do not allow spaying or neutering until they have reached 6 months of age
(it is in the contract it MUST be done at that time), and do not allow the
surgical removal of the anal sacs, claws or fangs at all.
 
Jills are not bred until a minimum of 1 year of age, and then only if in
perfect condition and generally not bred more than once a year... rare
cases may be bred within 10 months or so if very strong and healthy.  My
females are 1 1/2 to 4 pounds and my males are 4 to 6 1/2 pounds.  I feed a
kennel mix of Marshall Ferrets, 8 in 1 Ultimate, Eukanuba Kitten and Bil
Jac Kitten... this mix is supplemented with powdered brewers yeast, Nupro
ferret supplement and Mira-coat.  Pregnant and nursing jills and young kits
are fed this mix with extra brewers yeast and powdered lambs milk added.
 
Kits are offered weaning mushes starting at 4 weeks, and the mush thickened
until totally dry usually at 10 weeks... I let the kits and the moms decide
when they are weaned.
 
Any other questions, I would be happy to answer.
 
Pegasus Fanciful Ferrets By Pegasus Ferrets Unlimited Rescue (FUR)
[log in to unmask]
[Posted in FML issue 2769]

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