Bruce Williams is a pathologist at the AFIP; he does not see animals
themselves.  He doesn't have a path lab anymore except for usual
mysteries, either, and then it can take a long time.  He suggests:
 
>I am recommending that my ferret clients switch over to Mike Garner
>of Northwest ZooPath in Snohomish, WA. We have worked and published
>together on ferret pathology, so I know he'll do a good job.
>
>The particulars are Northwest ZooPath, 18210 Waverly Drive,
>Snohomish, WA 98296-4815.
>Telephone: (360)-668-6003
>Fax (360)-6686072
 
Your vet probably can do a lot of the testing in-house.  Things which I am
sure are being considered include (but won't be limited to): the normal
e-coli population either swinging low or high, colitis, food poisoning,
giardia, coccidea, ECE, etc., etc., etc.
 
It can be very hard to tell what is causing runs.  The diseases can be
hard to spot in testing, and what is best for one type of problem isn't
necessarily the best for another.
 
The main things you need to do are:
1. Keep enough fluids and electrolytes in.  Have your vet show you an
assortment of assessment techniques for spotting dehydration.  You will see
if the eyes are dull (not always reliable), how rapidly the skin on the
scruff bounces back when pinched, how tacky the gums feel.  Try using an
electrolyte solution some of the time for replacing some of the fluids as
well as essential electrolytes.  We like Kayolyte because it comes in an
easy to store powder.  Others prefer the liquid types and they freeze it
in cubes.  This is because the solutions won't work after two days if they
remain in liquid form.  There is a HUGE selection: store brands, Pedialyte,
etc.  They are all the same sort of thing in an assortment of flavors as
far as I know.
 
2. If there is bad enough dehydration (Use the guidelines your vet will
give.) get the ferret to the vet IMMEDIATELY.  In some cases the vet will
use an sub-cu (sub-q, below the skin) injection of a lot of fluid.  That
will be slowly taken up by the ferret from the temporary hump it will make.
In the situations in which the kidneys may be in danger there will be IV
used.  (This is not an incredibly clear-cut judgement call, BTW, so even
the best can make an error with selecting between which of the two will
suffice.)
 
3. Get food in.  Your vet will sell a canned food known as A/D which
stinks.  That is good.  When they get dehydrated the serious reduction in
the moisture in their sinuses reduces the sense of smell (at least that's
the mechanism I was told ages ago and it makes sense -- anyone with
allergies and meds can tell you that either extreme reduces sense of
smell).  This food is VERY high in calories.  If you mix it with some warm
water it will be easily eaten, so then it's a matter of encouragement and
patience.  A lot of us also make our own high-cal, high protein foods for
them, especially when sick.  Look in the server under the words "duck
soup".
 
4. Keep the ferret separated from the rest in case it's contagious.
 
5. Keep the ferret warm enough with a lot of good bedding that is
   changed often.
 
6. Use other standard nursing tips for sick ferrets.
 
I am sure that others will also post some useful tips for you, and for all
to keep on file.
[Posted in FML issue 2942]