Note: Due to the loss of my hard drive, the following question is not a
direct quote, but a paraphrase made from memory.  If my memory was
faulty, or for some reason I have failed to answer a question, please
feel free to email me and I will resolve the situation.
 
Q: I want to use freestanding hammocks for my free-roaming ferrets, but
my wife doesn't want wooden boxes throughout the house.  Any other ideas?
 
A: One or two...you got a divorce lawyer or a shovel?  Seriously, here
are some ideas that can be used effectively.  Unfortunately, most require
the use of tools.
 
PVC Piping:
Tools: tape measure, fine-toothed saw, sandpaper block, PVC glue and
applicators, drill (1/8th or 3/16th drill bit).
 
Materials: PVC pipe (your choice of diameter to best fit the decor), 8
PVC elbows (to fit the pipe), 4 1/8th or 3/16th eyehook with cap nut
(3/8th in. longer than the PVC tube diameter), 8 small washers, hammock,
enamel spray paint.
 
Procedure: Measure the length and width of the hammock, adding two inches
to the length and three inches to the width.  Cut two lengths of PVC
piping to the length measurement (bottom pieces), two to the width (top
pieces) and four about 9-12 inches, depending on how high you want the
hammock--shorter for older ferrets (upright pieces).  Smooth the cut
edges with sandpaper.  Glue an elbow to each end of the bottom pieces and
immediately press the piece against a flat surface to insure the elbows
are perfectly aligned.  Do the same with the top pieces.  Allow the
assembly to dry for the recommended time specified for the glue.  Once
dry, assemble the hammock frame using the upright pieces.  There is no
reason to glue the uprights if you want to be able to disassemble the
hammock frame later.  Place the edge of the hammock along the top piece
and mark the corners, then drill holes for the eyebolts.  I recommend
drilling the holes from top to bottom (perpendicular to the floor) so you
can mount the eyehooks UNDER the top piece.  Paint the assembled hammock
frame your choice of color and allow it to dry a couple of days before
final assembly.  Place a washer on the eyehook, thread it through the
drilled hole, add a second washer, and tighten it in place with the cap
nut.  Snap the hammock to the eyehooks and you are finished.
 
Copper Piping:
Tools: tape measure, hacksaw, sandpaper block, file, propane torch and
solder (or epoxy), drill (1/8th or 3/16th drill bit).
 
Materials: copper pipe (your choice of diameter to best fit the decor), 8
copper elbows, 4 1/8th or 3/16th eyehook with cap nut (3/8th in. longer
than the copper tube diameter), 8 small washers, hammock.
 
Procedure: Basically you use the same procedure as above, except you
are using copper piping and soldering the corners with a torch (you can
epoxy the elbows on if you wish).  The copper pipe can be left to oxidize
naturally, can be painted, can be polished and sprayed with a clear
protective coat, or can be chemically oxidized.  Mine was polished
smooth, chemically oxidized to a beautiful blue-green, sprayed with
lacquer, and is VERY attractive.
 
Finished Bookshelf Shelf:
Tools: tape measure, fine-toothed saw, sandpaper block, rapid square or
carpenter's square, wood glue and applicators, drill (1/8th or 3/16th
drill bit), hammer.
 
Materials: Bookshelf (your choice of color to best fit the decor,
roughly 2 feet longer than the length of your hammock), 1 1/4 in.
finishing nails, 4 1/8th or 3/16th eyehook with cap nut (3/8th in.
longer than the bookshelf width), 1/4 round wood strip (to match shelf
color), 8 small washers, hammock.
 
Procedure: Most home centers have shelves ready to drop on the support.
Most available pre-finished shelves have a maximum width of about 12
inches, so you are limited to a narrow hammock (I think some are
available--Ferret Wise or someone else may stock them).  Lightly mark the
center (halfway point) of the board.  Measure the length of the hammock,
add two inches, and transfer the measurement to the bookshelf so the
halfway point of the hammock matches the halfway mark on the board (an
18 in. hammock would have a 20 in. measure, with 10 inches on either side
of the shelf's halfway point).  Using the carpenter's square, mark the
board, and cut the board using a fine-toothed saw.  Repeat at the other
end, resulting in two ends roughly the same length (the sides), and a
third piece (the bottom) about 2 inches longer the hammock.  Apply a thin
coat of glue to the cut edge of the bottom piece, then butt it against
the (upright) sidepiece and attach with the finishing nails.  Repeat the
procedure on the other side.  Cut two pieces of 1/4 round wood stripping
the width of the shelf, glue them in place along the inside corner, and
add a couple of finishing nails.  Drill holes in each top corner, add the
eyehooks, and hang the hammock.
 
Cup Hooks: Hooks can be screwed under chairs, end tables, and coffee
tables, spaced to hang your favorite hammock(s).
 
Unfinished Stool: Turn it upside down, paint or stain it your choice of
color, add eyehooks on the upturned legs, then hang the hammock.  The
advantage of the stool is that a small sleeping pad can be added to the
bottom (now the top) of the seat, under the hung hammock.
 
Bob C
[Posted in FML issue 4246]