Hi all,
 
I am currently working on a edited and much shorter version of this for the
FAQ because Pam felt it was too long so it will be there very soon.  In the
meantime I thought you might like to read the original version and perhaps
even save it for future reference.  Thanks to all that sent me their ideas
on this.
 
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How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one ('s)?
When introducing a new ferret to an established ferret ('s) it is completely
normal for there to be fights of dominance.  This can range from nonexistent
to all out war.  You must be prepared for the worst.  There are many
techniques you can use to ease this stressful transition but please remember
that no one technique works on all ferrets.  It is up to you to find which
technique works best for your ferret.  Often a combination of ideas is most
successful.  No matter what techniques you choose be sure to reassure each
of the ferrets that everything is ok and they are very loved.
 
* First, and most important, make sure the newcomer is free from all disease
and current on vaccinations before any interaction takes place.  Get a vet
check-up for ear mites and any other communicable medical problems.  You may
choose to quarantine the newcomer for 1 or more weeks if you are unsure for
any reason.
 
* The best possible way to choose your new ferret is to let your current
ferret do it for you.  Choose someplace that will allow you to bring your
ferret with you so he can mingle with all the available ferrets and choose
his own new friend.
 
* If your ferret is not allowed to go with you then make sure when they are
first introduced that it takes place in an absolutely neutral area.  Not
just an unused room in your home but preferably in someone else's home or at
least someplace neither ferret has ever been or even been near to.  It can
also help if other ferrets and plenty of distractions are also there.  Often
one other ferret will be seen as an enemy whereas a group of ferrets is seen
as a party.  You might start by just holding the ferrets and letting them
gently sniff each other for awhile.
 
* If an immediate introduction feels uncomfortable to you then you might
wish to keep the newcomer in a separate cage at first but near to your
current ferret's cage.  Allow short, supervised visits as often as possible.
It is also best to let one ferret at a time out for some alone playtime.
This way the new guy can explore and begin to feel comfortable in the new
surroundings and the established ferret will not feel that he is being
punished or that something has drastically changed.  Also keep switching one
ferret's bedding for the other's and vice-versa so they become accustomed to
each other's scent.
 
* Giving all the ferrets a bath immediately can be a big help too.  This way
they all smell the same and there may be less aggressiveness.  Even bathing
them together may help since misery loves company (unless you luck out and
have bath-loving ferrets):-) You might use a strong smelling shampoo to
cover-up their scents, put vanilla extract on their noses to confuse their
smelling sense and also put Bitter Apple or other bad tasting substance on
the back of their necks to discourage biting.  Be sure it is safe for the
ferrets whatever you choose to use.  I've also been told that smearing
Ferretone, Laxatone, Nutri-Cal or other yummy substance all over their faces
will encourage licking rather than biting.
 
* Expect there to be dominance fighting but always supervise at the
beginning just in case it becomes way too aggressive.  A ferret that bites
at another ferret with a darting motion and shakes his opponent violently or
tears at his skin is being more aggressive than normal dominance.  Striking
at the face or feet and leaving bleeding marks in the skin can be dangerous.
If left alone a ferret can end up with a neck entirely covered with scabs
and infected.  When undue aggression occurs immediately scruff the attacker
with your fingers, or better yet, with your mouth (just like mommy would do)
and gently shake them.  Also you should scold them by saying up close and
loud "No", "Bad Ferret" etc..  Do NOT EVER hit your ferret to discipline
him.  Even tapping on the nose is frowned upon by a large majority of ferret
parents.  All this accomplishes is making the ferret afraid of you and
especially human hands.  Afterward put the attacker in the cage for a time
out to memorize the lesson he just learned.  Then find the newcomer and
gently reassure him that he is safe and you love him.  It would be good to
do this until he squirms to get down unless he does that right away.
Usually when a ferret is being hurt they will get very vocal and very loud
{150 kB sound}, often screaming.  This is not always the case though so
constant supervision is a MUST.
 
* Sometimes choosing a kit newcomer can be a plus but this can also require
more precautions.  Since a kit is so tiny if the established ferret is
simply too rough you may need to keep the kit caged separately for many
weeks until it grows in size, is more agile and develops better skills.
Select a kit that is actively playing with his cage-mates and doesn't cower
in the corner or bully all the others.  A kit that is consistently bothered,
attacked and dragged around by a bigger, aggressive ferret may become so
traumatized and maladjusted as to want nothing to do with other ferrets.
Too much shock to a baby's system can even lead to death.
 
* The consensus is that just throwing the ferrets together in a locked cage
to fight it out in one shot is the absolute LAST resort.  I feel it must be
mentioned here though since in a few cases this was the only technique that
worked.
 
A few final remarks:
- Buying two young ferrets, raised together, usually means they are already
  friends or they will become friends right away.
- Older ferrets raised together and purchased by you as a pair often blend
  into the existing group easier.
- A single ferret may have more problems being accepted.
- Ferrets that have been alone for 2 years or more tend to take a little
  longer,if ever,to adapt to a new ferret.
- Grooming each other is a sign of acceptance.  They often do this to each
  other's ears and neck.
- When you pull them apart if the loser goes running back for more it may
  be they are just playing roughly.
- DO NOT leave the ferrets unsupervised until you are positive a peaceful
  integration has taken place.
 
Patience is the MOST important virtue during this time.  Often all is well
in a few days to 2 weeks but in some instances peace may not be achieved for
3, 5 or even up to 7 months.  Unfortunately in very rare instances peace is
never achieved and a new home may need to be found for the newcomer for
anyone to ever be happy again.  The best home would be where the little guy
will always be the only ferret.  Also where the owner (of other ferrets) is
aware of all the problems but is willing to accept the responsibility and
keep the ferret for the rest of it's life no matter what .
 
Just be prepared for the absolute worst then anything less than that will
seem like a piece of cake.  Know that your final goal is well worth the work
and that having 2 or more ferrets that have each other to love and play with
is the greatest joy you may ever know!
 
*****************************************************
*          Kelleen & The INSANE Animal House        *
*          [log in to unmask]                           *
*          President & Founder of                   *
 
*F.A.N.G. - Ferret Association of Neverending Glee  *
*Location : Boise, Idaho                            *
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*I'll take a good animal over a good mate anyday,   *
*all THEY want is lots of love and great chow!!!!   *
 
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[Posted in FML issue 1449]