I have received a letter asking me to write something here on rectal
prolapse from an owner's (non-vet) point of view because of our mentioned
experiences.
 
****There are going to be others here who have also gone through this but
used different approaches which were just as successful, or who have more
experience than I, or are professionals who may want to teach us all.
Could those people, PLEASE, instruct everyone?  If you prefer to use
ferret-speak, could you follow with a section marked "TRANSLATION" so that
we can ALL learn from you?  That seems an easy way for each reader to be
helped while allowing for personal expression.  (Or, if you prefer: "Tay
tum woids 'n ah perrygrap de groan-oops tay, 2." as per Scooter Ferret)****
 
REMEMBER:  A SEVERE RECTAL PROLAPSE CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS SO TAKE FERRETS
WITH BAD ONES TO YOUR VET RIGHT AWAY.  ALSO, REMEMBER THAT REPEATED SMALLER
RECTAL PROLAPSES CAN LEAD TO A SEVERE ONE SO IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOUR VET
KNOW THAT REPEATS HAVE HAPPENED, ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE CLOSE TOGETHER
SINCE THE CAUSE MUST BE FOUND.
 
Some Common Causes:
prolapse is not uncommon in kits which have been given solid food too
early.  In this case moisten the food.  Too much roughage can cause them,
for example: eating their bedding or having too many fruits.  Any cause of
loose stools or diarrhea can cause rectal prolapses.  Some typical ones are
hleicobacter, ECE, and coccidea, but there are a large number of other
possible causes.  Even insulinoma can lead to "butterscotch pudding
stools".  (Apologies extended from this butterscotch and pudding lover, but
it's the best description.)  Your vet needs to find the cause.  Changing
food abruptly can cause loose stools, so it's best to mix foods so that
they are changed gradually.  In some cases there will have been a bad
descenting done which destabilizes the sigmoid colon and that will play a
part.
 
Very Severe Cases:
 
Your vet can operate and provide an attachment for the sigmoid colon so
that it won't shift, but may want to try the below first.
 
In Moderate or Often Repeated Cases:
 
Your vet will probably gas the ferret and replace the area, then can use
purse string stitching to tighten the openning.
 
In Mild Cases:
 
Your vet will take a lubricant and a cotton swab, and use those to replace
the area, then will advise you to keep the area lubricated and to prevent
rubbing as much as possible.  We have used KY, petroleum jelly, and
Moisturel Cream with good results.
 
When You Have to Do Them Yourself:
 
Sometimes a ferret will be terminally ill, not a surgical candidate but
regularly "Popping her bum..." as we used to say with 'Choppie.  In her
case we had to lubricate the area many times each day (which meant that
petroleum jelly was out), and often had to replace the tissue.  We found
that sometimes if we moisturized her rectum well and then held her under
her belly so she could not drag her anus (with human doing a three limb
crawl), just walking and being moisturized caused it to go back into place.
Other times we had to put it back.  We would scruff her (because if she
pushed with her rear legs it could get worse) and then relax her with
kisses or treats.  With my pinky nail cut back to the quick that finger was
exactly the right size (well-lubricated, of course) and I had better
control so less chance of hurting her, but others can use a well-lubricated
cotton swab.  The carpet was a huge no-no since rubbing there always
escalated the damage, ditto anything else which could cause irritation, and
she simply could NOT have raisins or cranberries.
 
BTW, I noticed a mention of adrenal disease as Cushings.  What ferrets
usually get is NOT Cushings, but hyperestrogenism and there are multiple
approaches to such problems.  I suggest that folks, PLEASE, make use of the
Ferret Medical FAQs http://www.ferretcentral.org  and get these to your vet
as well.
 
Hope this helps someone.
 
Sukie
[Posted in FML issue 2446]