If you have read (what was unintended to become a series, but certainly
became one) the prior posts on ageing, and you paid close attention, then
you must have come to the conclusion that there is not much you can do
about ageing in ferrets. So much is tied up in the evolutionary history
and genetic makeup that really very little can be done to significantly
alter a ferret's lifespan. Right? Wrong. Genetics is important, but --
excluding some genetic diseases which always have bad outcomes-- it allows
a plastic response to the environment; a sort of built-in adaptation. For
example, two ferrets that are identical twins. Feed one a high quality
food and he grows to 4 lb.. Feed the identical brother a lower grade food
and he only makes it to 2 lb. Once the end of skeletal development has
been reached, that's the adult size; you can get fatter, but you cannot
get larger.
This is in fact a genetic adaptation and parts have been studied under such
high sounding titles as "material effect," "environmental determinism," and
even "genotypic (or phenotypic) plasticity." In a landscape having limited
food, the smaller of the two ferrets has the advantage and will probably
not starve as soon as the larger one. So, the availability of food in the
environment, in combination with a genetic preadaption which allows a
plastic response, DETERMINES the size of the individual as it is growing.
This is very important to understand, because it illustrates the ties
between genetics and the environment, and helps understand why ferrets will
grow better, have more meaningful lives, and have a better quality of life
if we, as ferret owners, adapt the ferret's environment to increase those
positive attributes. If you understand the link exists, then all you have
to do is manipulate that link to best serve you and your ferret. That's
easy; the hard part is you must first understand the ferret's evolutionary
history (or as much as is known).
The polecat (ancestor of the ferret) evolved eating small mammals,
amphibians, insects, birds and carrion. They evolved specific hunting
skills that essentially constitute a random search pattern using a very
refined sense of smell (good enough to detect a frog under 2 ft. of mud).
The intense curiosity of ferrets is characteristic of this type of hunting
pattern because the only way you can be sure of getting enough to eat is
by looking EVERYWHERE for food. Once located, the food may be difficult
to obtain, so the ferret has a high degree of intelligence for
problem-solving. Thus, the evolutionary history of the ferret determines
the ferret's present behavior. Even though a ferret no longer has the NEED
to dig, stick it's nose into every nook and cranny, exclude new ferrets,
play fight, figure out how to get into trouble, hide extra food (or toys
which stimulate such behavior), worm their way into dark spaces, poop in
corners, explore every new object, and sleep in dark enclosed areas, it
STILL has instincts which compel them to do so. It is WHO they are, and,
quite honestly, if you don't like it, when by all means switch pet
ownership to a goldfish. It is nothing less than psychological abuse to
force a ferret to deny it's genetic instincts. Even in small doses, the
denial of a ferret's instincts is probably the major point of stress in
its life.
The following suggestions are suggestions only. Not everyone will agree
with them and many simply do not have the resources to accomplish them. I
think they work, they will at least improve the QUALITY of a ferret's life,
if not the quantity. In some cases, I think many environmentally linked
diseases will be delayed, their impact weakened, or they even be prevented
all together. BUT, I CANNOT offer conclusive evidence to prove they
actually will do so, and I concede that in some cases, they will have NO
impact on the ferret. They may only make your ferret a little happier.
Bob C and 16 Mo Aged Buttologists
[2-part post combined here. BIG]
pt.2: Cage Stress
Using the last 130+ years of published literature as our guide, we find a
major change in North American caging practices took place in the 1970s to
1980s. Before, cages were generally kept outdoors. They were fairly large
with just a few occupants to prevent males from fighting; cage occupancy
was limited to a single male or maybe a couple of females. Cages included
a blocked off area (or nesting box) where the ferret could retire for
security or sleeping.
A split in caging practices occurred in the 1970s when ferrets were being
introduced as pets in North America. Cages primarily adapted for
laboratory use were repackaged for ferret owners and generally consisted of
a large open wire cage, occasionally with shelves. Bedding was provided, a
litter box introduced, and the ferret dumped inside to spend most of it's
life in an extremely spartan environment. Nearly ALL cages used for pet
ferrets in North America today are of this type, with little or no change
from the basic design. Gone are the nesting boxes; for the most part
ferrets are forced to burrow under bedding for darkness and security. Note
that prior to this time, there is LITTLE OR NO mention of adrenal-related
disease in ferrets in the veterinary literature, even though the reported
ages at death were roughly the same as today. Arguments that ferrets were
considered a disposable animal and thus did not see vets for treatment are
obtuse; there is a rich veterinary literature from this time period because
of fitch farming and laboratory experimentation. With the exception of
adrenal and pancreatic disease (and the recent introduction of ECE), the
same diseases you hear about today were discussed then. Although the
occasional adrenal or pancreatic problem did occur prior to this split in
housing practices, it was uncommon.
As will be discussed in later parts of this series, this shift in housing
occurred at the same time as dietary, breeding and other shifts took place,
so it is difficult to say exactly which changes are responsible for which
effects. They might all be to blame, maybe just a few. But without
documented scientific investigation, none can be ruled out. However,
knowing the evolutionary history of the ferret, we CAN make some
suggestions that probably have some minor value, if not in the actual
long term health of the ferret, then at least in quality of life.
1. Add a nesting box. Ferrets are drawn to enclosed darkened sleeping
areas but few cages provide more than just a blanket or hammock for
sleeping. Most cages lose too much space if a box is placed inside, so
hang one outside the cage. It can be bolted to the wire, an opening can
be cut over the doorway, and you have not only increased the size of your
cage, BUT you have provided a secure and dark sleeping area. If you can't
do this, then at least cover the cage top with a dark towel to cut light
and simulate a darkened environment.
2. Limit cage time. There is not a cage in the world which a ferret
doesn't memorize in a few short hours. Imagine living your entire life in
a bedroom with no TV, few visits and the same damn magazines you've read
for the last five years. The US Supreme Court classified such confinement
for murderers and rapists as "cruel and unusual." It is no wonder ferrets
dig, bite cages, and try hard to escape. The confinement probably
stimulates escape and dispersal instincts in the ferret. Remember that
polecats DISPERSE at sexual maturity to live isolated lives. Cage
confinement probably stimulates these instincts and exacerbates negative
behaviors, such as digging and cage biting. It increases stress, which
might trigger adrenal disease. If you can't allow your ferret out several
times a day, at least increase the time they are out and give extra when
you can. Cages are, after all, CAGES. Limit your ferret's time in them
and you will have a healthier, happier ferret.
3. Rotate cage bedding, toys and food containers. Change bedding often
and add different scents to the fabrics. Rotate toys, and just don't drop
in one or two; drop in half a dozen. Spray each one with a different scent
or perfume. Hide small treats to stimulate exploratory behavior, make them
involve some sort of problem to stimulate the intellect. You can place a
treat inside a plastic egg, or my favorite, a treat inside a small
cardboard box or paper bag. Change food containers and water bottles
frequently and replace them in different locations.
4. Adapt to the ferret. Believe it or not, not all ferrets have the same
activity times as you, or even other ferrets. Try to open cages when it
is NATURAL for them, not just at your convenience.
5. Limit cage occupancy. It is probably better to use several medium size
cages than a single large cage. The advantage to several medium size cages
is you can rotate occupants to stimulate exploratory behaviors.
6. Ferret-proof a room and dump the cage. This is the best solution
because it allows the ferret the freedom and exploration space it craves.
This should be the goal of every ferret owner whenever possible; if you
can't ethically house a ferret, get a goldfish and wait until you can.
Caging may be a necessary evil, but we MUST acknowledge its inherent
problems. Cage stress has been shown to increase stress-related disease,
decrease mental abilities and even increase neurotic behaviors. It is
probably strongly causal-linked to age-related environmental diseases, such
as adrenal disease or stress disorders. Long term caging decreases the
physical conditioning of the ferret, lowers cardiovascular and aerobic
conditioning, and most likely stimulates escape and dispersal behaviors.
Most shelter ferrets are housed in cages and cage environments that would
be a prime-time 20/20 investigation if a medical laboratory or zoo.
Regardless of operator intent, they are horrible places to live and
probably breed age-related environmentally-triggered disease.
Bob C and 16 Mo' Spartan John Users (a triple pun!)
[Posted in FML issue 2974]
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