WASTES AND CLEANING:
A discussion regarding hazardous biological wastes, their disinfection,
and disposal is in order. You can be a wonderful ferret nurse, but
unless you can control the spread of possible biological contamination,
your efforts could be wasted. It is far better to err on the side of
angels than to ignore a problem and find it returning with a vengeance
in other ferrets.
There is one other consideration when it comes to the disposal of
biological contaminants, and that is evolution. Evolution doesn't work
well when germs are unaffected, nor does it apply if they are wiped out;
when it is a problem is when almost all the germs are killed, but a few
tough ones survive. That can happen thousands of times with no
discernable result, but sooner or later, a surviving germ can produce
enough super germs to really make our lives hell. This has already
happened to strains of germs that normally attack humans; who hasn't
heard of antibiotic-resistant flesh-eating bacteria? Strains of
tuberculosis, Salmonella and E. coli are already plaguing hospital
corridors, and worse is yet to come. We can help prevent this
catastrophe if we follow a few simple rules:
1. ALWAYS give the COMPLETE dose of antibiotics, even if the ferret
seems to be getting better. If a ferret fights taking their antibiotics,
it is pretty easy to stop giving them when the ferret starts acting
better, thinking the worst is over. The problem is that the dose may not
have killed all the bacteria, and those slightly resistant may live to
develop later into a super bug.
2. If using a disinfectant, always use the recommended concentration.
Don't try to save a few pennies by watering it down. All you may be
doing is helping to breed the next super bug.
3. If using a disinfectant, always use a fresh batch. Some
disinfectants, such as bleach, lose potency on exposure to heat, oxygen
or light, others to organics. Don't try to save pennies, just mix a
fresh batch for each use; it is well worth it.
With that said, disposing of and cleaning up from infectious wastes may
require care, but it is hardly difficult. For paper wastes, litter, and
other disposables, I use a medium-sized kitchen-style plastic trashcan
lined with TWO plastic garbage bags. When the trashcan is HALF full, I
tie an overhand knot in the inner bag, and then tie the outer bag with a
plastic tie. If the wastes are especially infectious, I spray bleach
solution on the outside of the bag and let it "soak" for 5 minutes before
transporting it outside to the garbage. These wastes are not transported
through or brought into the living spaces of other ferrets. Be wary of
the outside waste cans; make sure the bags are protected from wild or
domestic scavengers or you may be spreading infectious waste around the
neighborhood. I use bungee cords to prevent the lids from being removed.
I also have a large diaper pail I use to disinfect objects. The pail is
filled with a household chorine bleach solution (see below), and all
suitable objects are dipped in the pail for five minutes. I use the same
strength bleach solution in a spray bottle to clean the table and cage,
wiping the bleach off with paper toweling after allowing it to stand for
5 minutes. Sometimes an item cannot stand up to the bleach treatment,
but my attitude is to periodically replace them and consider the money
well spent.
Beach is the BEST disinfectant you can buy because it is easy to obtain,
is extremely cheap, it is non-toxic in the solution strength used, and
it is pretty effective. You can use various other commercial products
(Lysol is good), but not a single one of them is better than good old
bleach unless you have an identified problem with a few specific
microorganisms such as cryptosporidia (for specific infections consult
your vet for advice on the best disinfectant). I recommend bleach for
general cleaning and disinfecting, and hospital grade germicides for
those rare times when bleach-resistant germs are causing trouble.
Consult your vet for the best choice for your specific problem.
Bob C
[Posted in FML issue 4412]
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