The "remedy" for ticks on ferrets is exactly the same as it is for
humans: physically remove them. The sooner the better!
Equipment:
Tweezers. Tick tweezers if you have them or long narrow tweezers if
you don't. Don't delay just to buy tick tweezers.
Antiseptic. Avoid alcohol- and cream-based antiseptics (that's good
advice anyway) but they are often better than nothing. My solid
recommendation for antiseptic is Betadine. You can dilute it with water
up to 10 to 1 to reduce irritation and studies show that it is still
effective. It is used extensively in hospitals. Every household should
have some Betadine. But be aware: it will stain anything with which it
comes in contact.
Swabs for the antiseptic. The corner of an old but clean cloth is fine;
a swab is better.
Small glass or plastic SEALABLE container for the tick(s). An empty
prescription pill bottle works well.
Latex or nitrile gloves if you have them. Put them on.
Sharpie or other "permanent" marker.
There are many folk methods for removing ticks. Some work okay, others
do not, yet others work sometimes. This is the recommended removal
method today:
DO NOT GRASP THE BODY OF THE TICK! That can be worse than doing
nothing.
Using the point of the tweezers, FROM THE SIDE, firmly grasp the HEAD
of the tick, underneath the body, where the mouthparts enter the skin.
This is the narrowest point, right against the skin.
Pull gently, straight out, away from the skin. Gently but firmly! You
may have to hold this position, with the tick pulling against the skin,
for a bit. Be a little patient; do not just start pulling harder if it
does not let go immediately. If it still hasn't after a little while,
you might try pulling harder. But be easy. If you pull too hard, the
tick's mouthparts can break off in the skin, possibly causing
infection. So increase the pull only very slowly and gradually.
(Some authorities recommend a slight counterclockwise twist when
removing the tick, but I do not give that much credence. I think there
are probably as many Republican ticks as Democrat.)
The tick should let go. As tempted as you may be, do not destroy or
throw away the tick. Put it in your container. You will save them in
case the ferret becomes ill and testing for disease is necessary.
After each tick is removed, scrub the bite site with antiseptic. Then
make a mark next to (not on) the spot! Especially if there are more
than one. You want to be able to find it again. A Sharpie is good for
this.
Continue in this manner until all the ticks are removed. Seal the
container and put it away. The ticks in the jar will eventually die,
but that can take a very long time so don't let them out! If you put
them in alcohol, of course the ticks will be dead soon after but that
could also reduce the effectiveness of tests. Besides, they are ticks.
A slow horrible death is fitting.
I know this is an easier process with the large Western ticks than it
is with, for example, the small Eastern deer ticks. But the recommended
methods are still the same.
ALWAYS keep a sharp eye on an animal's health and behavior for a good
long while after a tick bite, as some tick-borne diseases can take
weeks to incubate.
NOTES:
Do not grasp the body of the tick. That can force the tick to
regurgitate disease-bearing pathogens straight into the victim's
bloodstream. Not Good.
If you break off the tick's head or mouthparts, wait a moment and try
to remove them with fine tweezers if you can. If you know enough to use
a scalpel with confidence, you might consider removing them that way,
as they are typically pretty shallow. Regardless, be very generous and
firm with the antiseptic.
You made a mark next to any bites, right? Watch those spots for at
least a few days, preferably a week, for infection or any other issues.
Especially any that have remaining tick parts.
Lonny Eachus
[Posted in FML 7298]
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