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Subject:
From:
"Meg Carpenter, Chaotic Ferrets" <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Wed, 19 Feb 1997 01:50:02 -0500
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Hello FML -
>Melanie Hough <[log in to unmask]>
>Subject: hairless belly
>Cassidy had a splenectomy around Thanksgiving and recovered wonderfully but
>his hair still hasn't completely grown back.  How long should this take?...
>Also, sometimes he acts like he is chewing but there isn't anything in
>his mouth.
 
HI Melanie - It is not unusual for it to take a very long time for fur to
regrow after a ferret has had a shave prep for surgery.  Fur will probably
regorw with next coat change, so don't worry about this.  However, since he
had a spleenectomy - is chewing or grinding teeth -- think you might have a
case of an ulcer there.  Please get him back to the vet asap and you should
have stool checked for occult blood, but based on symptoms, and because
uclers are so common in ferrets - should start to treat for ulcer right away
and be sure to follow the full regimen including re-check when course is
complete.  Let us know how he does.
 
Hi Maggie - You must be very tired!  For Ollie - would suggest taking him
off "hard food" for a couple of days; give Duck Soup with just a little of
"hard food" mixed in.  I use an electric coffee grinder to powder it.  But
for patients who are having problems with digestive tract mostly give
Ensure(or similar)/Pedialyte to get them over the "hump".  Also might want
to mix in some chicken baby food if you are not already doing this.  Really
good nutrient source and easy on the intestinal tract is STAT-vme or
Pediatric STAT which you can get from your Vet.Perhaps a few days of rest on
his digestive tract will help - hope so.  Good luck and drop me a line!
 
Shawn - Since your ferret is now 14 weeks old; and you really don't have
history except for being told that one distemper vacinnation was adminstered-
You should give your ferret the entire beginning series of three
vaccinations with Canine Distemper Vaccine Only - Do not give feline - or
anything else!  After that, your ferret should be vaccinated annually.  I
prefer Galaxy-D others use Fervac.  Either is acceptable (don't bother to
flame anyone-most of the vets in this area prefer Galaxy-D too).
 
Terry - I think I might know what is going on with Fester - I will e-mail
you or if you wish - please call me a 703-765-4353.  I hope by the time you
read this he is doing much better.
 
Bob (Mo' Bob) writes quite a bit about the os penis in ferrets and boners in
other animals (giggle).  I would add a comment or two - I don't think most
have to worry about your ferret's getting "hung up" on wire cages if they
are neutered, although anything is possible.  Of course, one should never
keep ferrets on wire flooring, but you all know that any way.  However, for
those of us who have whole ferrets, they sometimes can get, ah, um, snared.
Ramps can be a hazard (I remove them).  But the biggest danger for unholy
whole hobs is the fact that they simply will not stay away from other whole
hobs cages when they are out.  And, the idiots must mark their rivals cage --
and once in a while -- they get "caught".  Almost everyone who breeds can
tell you a horror story.  One of my hobs hooked himself twice before he
learned his lesson, and another once.  Lucky in both cases that no permanent
damage was done.  The worst injury, with swelling and some bleeding was
given a bit of prednisone, precautionary antibiotics and a little ice pack.
Poor baby.  I have friends who have experienced some serious injuries by
getting "hooked" - well, actually not my friends, their hobs.  And I worry
about the young hobs when they start marking and are coming into season.
Well, not much brain there - mostly testosterone -- Isn't testosterone a
controlled susbstance Mo Bob??  So, for those of you who have obtained a kit
hob from a breeder - do be mindful of this as they start to mature before
you get them neutered.  They do sometimes get in trouble.  If this should
happen to one of your ferrets -- you must rapidly support the ferrets weight
and....well, quickly "unhook" him.  It is best to have the "victim" checked
by the vet, especially if there is bleeding.  You will not fail to note that
they are in trouble, when this happens - they scream like banshees.  And you
will respond in a hurry.  I use carpets in my ferret cages - small carpets
with bound edges and jute backing are available in many discount department
stores - like Ames, K-Mart and Wal-Mart.  Also, carpet remnants can be
obtained cheaply from many carpet stores.  They are easy to cut to cage size
with an exacto knife or utility razor knife and inexpensive enough to be
discarded when soiled.  I watch for sales and stock up.
 
Just a reminder to all - when you have an ill ferret or suspect you do, or
are not sure your ferret is eating -- don't wait, hydrate!  Ferrets can
become de-hydrated and be in serious trouble in a matter of hours.  Keep
Pedialyte (I prefer plain) and Ensure or Sustecal or Deliver 2.0 on hand at
all times.  To hydrate a ferret - give half & half mixture orally - 15-20
cc's every 2-4 hours, depending on what they are eating.  I use an infant
medicine dropper.  Most ferrets will take this readily, but if not,
administer at corner of mouth and in front of back teeth.
 
Cheers to all,
Meg
[Posted in FML issue 1848]

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