TO: David Pradarelli <>
Ferret shots:
new kit - distemper at 8 weeks, 11-12 weeks, 14-15 weeks (i.e. booster at
every 3-4 week interval). If purchased at the pet shop, ask the arrival
date the kit came in and give the second booster 3 weeks after that date.
Third booster in 3-4 weeks.
Rabies can be administered as early as 12 weeks, but keep this shot separate
from the distemper by 1 or 2 weeks. No booster is needed.
new adult - no known shot record? Vaccinate against distemper and then boost
3-4 weeks later.
Rabies can be administered at any time, but keep this shot separate from the
distemper by 1 or 2 weeks.
If you know the ferret was inoculated within the last year, then only one
shot is needed to keep them current. If you want to move a new ferret to
your present ferret(s) schedule, or visa versa, then as long as it has been
a month since the previous shot, go ahead and re-vaccinate.
Annual boosters are required for distemper and rabies. Keep these shots
separate by 1-2 weeks and in case of reactions, wait at the vets for at
least 20 minutes after the shot is given.
Recommended vaccines are Galaxy-D and Fervac-D for distemper. Imrab 3 is
the ONLY approved rabies vaccine for ferrets at this time. There have been
vaccine reactions reported in FERVAC and the company is recommending
pre-vaccine injections of Benadril. Call 800-283-6465 for exact dosages or
to report reactions.
===== ECE
At this time - there is NO safe place to buy or adopt a ferret, IMHO.
Shelters and breeders have been dealing with ECE for at least four years.
This last year, pet distributors started becoming contaminated. Ferrets are
clean at most ferret farms, then come in contact with ECE at the distributor
who collects ferrets from any available sources, the kits look like they are
stressed for a day or two (which they are, and travel stress and ECE are
close enough in looks that a distributor can't tell) then shipped to pet
shops, where they look and act fine (usually - I've been working with PetCo
in my area [VA] because they are selling ECE infected kits), then kits go to
new homes and infect established households. Several FML members have dealt
with this scenario.
my personal recommendation is:
if you live in an ECE area, these are your choices:
1. if you have young ferrets (under 3) and really want another ferret, get
a new ferret and take the chance of infecting your household while the
animals are young enough to handle it.
2. If you have older ferrets, avoid getting a new ferret until the older
one(s) have passed on.
If you live in an ECE free area (which are becoming fewer)
1. Research closely whether the place you are getting your new ferret from
reports any strange poops or grainy stools. Aviod them - it may not
be ECE but it is an illness anyway.
2. If you find a clean place to get a ferret, read up on ECE on Ferret
Central and other places just to be prepared.
In the next issue of STAR*, I'm printing a letter from a shelter operator
about her exposure and her process of dealing with the outbreak. She's in
western Tenn and ECE had never been reported there before, so it can strike
at any time or place.
Pamela Troutman Grant
Check out STAR*'s Web page through
http://ferretworld.com
or...
For more info on *Shelters That Adopt & Rescue Ferrets,
and to receive a listing of ferret shelters, contacts,
vets, supplies, clubs, etc. in your state,
send a LONG self addressed stamped envelope to:
STAR* Ferrets
PO Box 1714
Springfield, VA 22151-0714
Information helps all ferrets and owners.
This is NOT just for shelters only!
[Posted in FML issue 1901]
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