Dear FML -
 
Chris - I think you touch on the heart of the matter with your concern about
knowing how long pet ferrets might live with the culling of their mothers at
3 years.  I think this lack of history is what worries many.  You could have
generations of down-line ferrets in the breeding colony that are only
permitted to live 3 years.  On the other hand, of course, these ferrets
would have to be healthy to be permitted to breed in the first place.  And,
although not definitely proven, and so I state in my opinion only, a lot of
problems seen are thought to be connected to the so very early neutering of
our pet MF ferrets.  Since MF is the largest breeder and the only opportunity
that many have to own a ferret -- these ferrets will continue to be the
majority of beloved pets in homes.
 
Many of us who breed do so with the hope and thought that we can, by doing
our best, bring to pet owners ferrets that might reasonably be expected to
live a long life.  But private breeders cannot filll the demand for all.
Small breeders take great care in selecting their breeding animals and check
carefully into backgrounds before acquiring a ferret for breeding, and
against backgrounds when breeding a ferret with another breeder's ferret.
Also, small breeders keep records and generally have follow-on with people
who acquire their babies.  Responsible breeders are interested in follow-up
on health of their kits as well as keeping track of how their babies are
being cared for.  I don't like the term "hobby breeder" or "backyard
breeder" because so much time, work, effort, etc.  and a major portion of
our hearts (and money) go into the care of our breeders and kits.  And our
breeders are primarily pets for us - not just for breeding.  When they have
completed their breeding life they remain with most breeders for the rest of
their lives.  Many of us have expanded out our breeding stock to incorporate
ferrets from other countries such as Germany and Austrailia.  In fact, I
have found the German ferrets to produce large and healthy ferrets and I
sincerely hope that these animals will also, with the test of time, prove to
be long-lived.  Of course, problems can occur with any ferret - no matter
what their background - but I feel chances are less, or I would not be
breeding.
 
But back to the concern on health and longevity.  There are things that a
pet owner can do to help stave off problems with their MF ferrets (or
ferrets obtained from breeders).
 
All ferrets should have an annual physical examination by their veterinarian.
I think that all ferrets should have a CBC at that time as well - and
certainly at 2 years.  I would also include an organ profile.  Many vets
recommend blood work by 2 years, and more panels at 3-4 years.  This adds to
the expense of a vet trip of course, but so many times it can be reassuring,
or can pick up a problem in early stages.
 
Good diet also plays a strong role in the health of your pet.  And what to
feed a ferret has been discussed at length on these pages in recent weeks.
My 2 cents, which I have expressed before.  I think that a mix of food is
the best bet that we have to make sure our babies get proper nutrition.
Before there was Totally Ferret, my main ingredient in my ferret's mix was
Perform by Carnation which was a 36% protein food and for many years, the
only one I could find.  I relied on it and mixed in other top grade kitten
foods, but Perform for Kittens comprised a major proportion of diet.  With
the advent of Totally Ferret, I mixed this with Perform.  Unforunately,
Carnation stopped producing Perform last Spring and since that time, I have
been experimenting with other foods - inlcuding Innova, Mazuri and a few
others.  My feed also contains several other high-grade kitten foods with
minimum at 34% protein.  The mix I use generally has 3-5 foods mixed in with
36% protein comprising majority of food mix.  My ferrets are also fed a meal
or treat a day of poultry or beef.
 
Also, you can give your own ferret a general check-over from time to time.
But this should not - I repeat - should not be a substitute for the ferret
visiting his/her doctor!
 
First, start with head by checking ears.  Ears should appear clean and
healthy pink.  If you detect wax (well clean them).  If you see blackish wax
or flecks, you might have ear mites.  Check cartilgege for any swelling -
ears should be evenly set and uniform in appearance.
 
Check eyes - eyes should be bright and shineu with no visible opaqness
(whitish area) when held near light, or using pen light.  There should be no
tearing, or discharge.  Area around eyes should be free of evidence of
tearing or crustin at corners.  Inner eyelid should not be in evidence.
Eyes should be even in size.  Any noted problems should be checked by vet.
 
Nose should be pink and slightly moist (unless ferret has a black nose and
than should be black and moist!).  On awakening, ferrets noses will appear
to be dry and warm, but will soon become cool and slightly moist as they rev
up.  If nose is pale, dry and warm - trip to vet warranted.  Dry nose is
often indication of dehydration.
 
Mouth and Teeth.  First examine ferret with mouth closed.  Lip line should
appear nice and pink with no matter at corners of mouth, and again should
feel cool.  Jaw should not be "under-shot" and tongue should not protrude --
although sometimes tongue will protrude slightly on sleeping animal.
Examine gums.  Gums should be nice and pink and show no evidence of swelling
or redness or red areas.  Paleness or appearing white is sign for immediate
trip to vet.  Teeth should be clean and should show no recession of gum
line.  Top canines should overlap slightly the lower canines.  Check back
teeth.  All should be clean - any tartar build up should be scaled by you or
vet.  Any brown or dark teeth should be checked.  It is not unusual to note
chipped canines - but these should be watched.  .Tongue should be nice and
pink too - white areas or discoloration - again - the vet.
 
Neck area - Starting at base of scull, feel carefully all around the neck
and throat area.  You are looking for any areas of swelling or lumps.
 
Body - Next - hold your ferret under the front legs with feet supported on
lap or surface.  If ferret struggles, let ferret hang for short time, so you
can check him/her out.  Run your hand down the entire body of the ferret
using light grip.  Ferret should "ripple" as you do this - this is one check
for muscle tone.  Ferret should feel supple with even covering of bones.
Ferret should not feel unduly soft at abdominal area - unless over 4 years
of age.  Ribs, spine, shoulders and hips should not feel or appear bony.
Abdominal area should not be significantly larger than chest area, and hips
and hindquarters should not either.  In the former, you have a ferret that
is too thin, in the latter, you have a ferret that is too fat!
 
Next, starting just below the rib cage, gently palpate or feel into the
upper abdominal area and work your way down to the lower abdominal area just
above the pelvis.  Feeling with gentleness, you should not feel anything
much at all!  If you feel any areas that appear to be swollen, or hard, or
hard lumps - a trip to the vet is indicated.  The spleen is located on the
left side of the ferret slightly down from the rib cage.  The stomach is
located to the right of the spleen.  The liver is located on the right side
slightly less than midway down.  The kidneys are located to the back down
from the ribcage and the bladder is located just above the pelvis.  The
intestines are located in the lower abdominal area just below the stomach.
This, of course, is very general, but many books show internal anatomy of
ferrets and you may wish to use this as reference.
 
Shoulders hips, legs and feet - Feel carefully the shoulder and hip joints.
Be mindful if your ferret shows any signs (other than being ansy) to
discomfort in these areas.  Hips and shoulders should be well muscled and
not have any areas that feel swollen, lumpy or hard.  Legs should feel even
and ferret should pull them back when you pull them out a bit to check.
Feet and toes should appear normal without any knobbed areas or swelling.
Pads of feet should be pink and feel soft to touch.  Check between pads and
toes.  Any unusual coloration, irritation or swelling should be checked by
vet.
 
Hope this is of some small help to some - you know, ounce of prevention and
all that.
 
Anna - Sounds like you have a classic sable mitt there.  Color consistent
and silverish hairs mixed with coat common in sable mitts (years ago called
feathering - now called roaning).  Also, white toes common in sable mitts -
slashed mitts seen more often than full mitts.  Enjoy your baby.
 
Adrienne - Glad you are taking Willie to vet.  Might want to get full panel
work-up - sure doctor will want to do one anyway.  Let us know how he does.
Cheers, Meg
 
 
Oh, well, shoot -- I forgot to include general appearance and coat on health
checking your ferret.  Ferrets usually have two coat changes a year - summer
coat and winter coat.  Often, because of various home lighting, heating and
air conditioning - ferrets can have their seasons confused - and have coats
reversed.  When your ferret goes out of coat - they can appear quite scrungy
at times - or their coat can be quite short and close to body (I call this
seal coat).  At this time, you might, with the absence of coat, think your
ferret is too thin.  Surprising how all that fur will make our ferrets
appear so much bigger.  Whatever stage of coat your ferret is in, the coat
should feel soft and look to be in good condition - for the most part.  When
your ferrets coat starts to grow in again, you might note dark areas on
inside of thighs and around abdominal area.  Brushing your ferrets coat
backwards will show short hairs starting to grow in.  Dry coat can mean
anything from nutritional deficiency, too much bathing, or illness.  Dry
coat on an oldtimer is not too unusual, but even your oldsters should have a
soft coat if they are in good health.  Dry coat can also be noted on a
breeding hob, especially when he has been in season for a while.  More
often, though, hobs will develop a somewhat greasy coat.  Whole hobs are
yucky creatures part of the year and suffer from testosterone poisoning
making them obnoxious!  But I digress.  Whiskers are also an indication of a
ferrets health, and should not appear short or broken.  In other words,
general appearance of your ferret is one of your best health indicators.  If
your ferret does not look good to you -- again, vet check.  And always trust
your instincts - if you feel that something is not right - don't wait and
worry - see the doctor.
 
A ferrets activity level is also a strong indication of how he/she is
feeling.  It is normal for the ferret to sleep for long periods with short
and usually intense activity periods.  If your ferret does not have "get up
and go" - something might be wrong.  As a ferret gets older, their activity
rate slows, but they should still be curious, integrested in relating to
you, getting in trouble, checking out anything you are doing, etc.  For
instance, one sign I had that something was wrong with one of my ferrets was
when I found her lying on the carpet in the middle of the room asleep.
Ferrets generally don't sleep out in the open - and as it turned out - she
was very ill.  So, any abberation from normal habit should be watched or
looked into.
[Posted in FML issue 1703]