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Subject:
From:
Dick Bossart <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Fri, 3 May 1996 19:27:41 -0400
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>Ferret behind the computer<
Mark,
Is your ferret actually chewing on the power cord or cables?  It does happen
but it is fortunately rare.  We usually have 30 or more running around here
at various times and I've never had one chew on a cord.  Again not saying it
doesn't happen.  I've read about it on the FML here.
 
If he doesn't, you might not have to do anything.  If he does, you can get
cord protectors to wrap around the cords to keep him from chewing through.
There was a discussion on here about the various kinds maybe a half-year
ago(?).
 
 
>ECE<
Dianna,
I should let Troy Lynn Eckart answer this one.  She has become the ECE
expert after 60 or so of her and her shelter ferrets came down with it.  So,
tle, correct me where I'm wrong.
 
Not a whole lot is known about ECE.  It attacks the intestinal lining of
ferrets and really does a number on it.  Young kits seem to do the best at
recovering, often with just an upset tummy and diarrhea for a while.  Older
ferrets with other illnesses may not make it - the stress being too much for
it.  In between it seems to be a 1 - 3 week long episode of antifreeze
colored diarrhea, initial vomiting, with resulting dehydration and possible
ulcer formation.
 
Treatment is usually: antibiotics to prevent secondary infections
(amoxicillin ususally); pepto bismol or kaopectate to control diarrhea; lots
of fluids given regularly (often forcing liquids into the mouth with a
syringe); Duck Soup -type feedings (usually "force feedings".) The feedings
and waterings are usually done every 3-4 hours.  Vet visits to make sure
everything is progressing satisfactorily; for the antibiotics; and for
recommendations on the over the counter medicine dosages and frequency.
With a lot of work on the owner's part, fatalities in normally healthy
ferrets are not common.  It is a dangerous disease.  No one seems sure how
it is spread but it can be by direct contact with an infected (or recently
recovered) ferret, or perhaps even though contact with shoes or clothing
worn around an infected (or recently recovered) ferret.  There seems to be a
lot of debate as to how long a recovered ferret is contagious.  Some think
weeks, others think 6 months or more.
 
>Training and Grooming and Vaccinations<
Tim,
In general ferrets do not need to be brushed like a dog or cat.  During the
shedding of their winter coat, it may help rid them of hair before they can
injest it though.
 
That is a good idea about putting a drop of ammonia in the litter box to
train them that the box is not for digging.  We had been using a little
feces or soiled litter.  I'll have to remember that one.
 
Distemper is an airborne disease and is 100% fatal in ferrets.  Indoor or
not, they might be exposed to distemper.  An annual rabies vaccination may
be enough to keep a person who might be bit or scrattched by your ferret not
to report it.  Even in states that grant quarantine for ferrets, it usually
requires them to have been vaccinated against rabies.  Having a current
rabies vaccination might save your ferret's life.  Play it safe and get
both.  The recommendation by one of the doctors who works for the rabies
vaccine manufaturer is to allow at least two weeks between the rabies and
the distemper vaccinations.  Our vet recommeds pretreating the ferret with
about 0.1 - 0.25 cc of pediatric benedryl 30- 40 minutes prior to the
vaccination and remaining in the vet's office for 30 minutes after the shot
to watch for rare, but potentially fatal vaccine reactions.
 
>grieving ferret<
Britta,
If the ferret is not eating and won't take the Duck Soup, you may have to
force it.  Make the Soup liquid enough that you can draw it up in an infant
feeding syringe.  Put the end of the syringe in the corner of its mouth
between the lips and teeth; then slowly dribble it in so that it is able to
lap it up rather than choke.  Depending on the size of the ferret somewhere
around 15 cc is about "normal" but small ferrets take less and larger ones
more (ask your vet about amounts for yours).  You may have to feed about
every 3-4 hours.  As it gains weight and feels better, make the Soup a
little thicker and try to get it to eat off of your fingers.  Keepl lowering
your fingers toward the bowl as it licks it off.  Pretty soon it will be
lapping directly out of the bowl.
 
>Biting<
Wayne,
We perfer the non-corporal training.  We never hit or thump for biting, but
we are consistant in punishing.  For us, scruffing the ferret by the back of
the neck and shaking (firmly but not too hard) back and forth while yelling
"NO!!" in its face seems to work best.  This is followed by lots of love.
Never set a ferret down after it bites.  If you do you are teaching it that
that's how it is supposed to ask to be set down.  If it always bites when
you pick it up, try having a treat in your hand.  It will learn to associate
you and being picked up with something pleasent.
 
>Outdoor ferret?<
Shawn,
Letting your ferret out without supervision AND a leash, is not recommended.
They rarely have any sort of homing instinct and treat the great outdoors as
another large room that needs to be explored.  They will likely waunder off
and not be able to find home again.  They may find themselves prey to large
birds, dogs, cats, people.  Ferrets are so friendly that they will walk
right up to another animal or person and be killed.
 
>Swollen Vulva<
Inez,
There is a blood test that can determine whether the swelling is due to a
botched spay or adrenal tumor.  It is the Univ of Tenn (I believe) panel.
Dr. Dutton (603-529-4999) would be able to help your vet if s/he is
unfamiliar with it.  (I like volunteering him <G>)
 
Dick B.     [BIG, Sorry for the long post]
[Posted in FML issue 1558]

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