FERRET-SEARCH Archives

Searchable FML archives

FERRET-SEARCH@LISTSERV.FERRETMAILINGLIST.ORG

Options: Use Forum View

Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Bob Martin <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Thu, 10 Aug 1995 07:49:52 -0400
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (110 lines)
OK, I can only contain myself for so long, then I have to burst out with
something.  Both here and on alt.pet.ferret recently there have been
many cage building questions. Some of the objectives were cheap, simple,
easy to build, portable, take-apart or fold-up, and so on. I have
managed to get 3-5 years use out of the cages I built the way I'll
describe, and I enjoyed them.  They don't stack, but that's good, I
don't want you to stack up ferrets. Never use bare wood, unsanitary.
 
   Parts list,  all from your local REALLYBIG home and lumber stuff
   warehouse.
 
    1.  Plastic diffuser sheets, 2 x 4 foot size,  for flourescent lights
        in drop ceiling fixtures. $2 - $3 each. One side smooth, other
        side has pyramid or prism shaped things.
 
    2.  Closet-Maid steel closet shelving, 16" or 20"  ( L16 or L20
        respectively) cut to length in store. This is 1/8 inch wire
        every one inch, welded to 1/4" wire every 6 to 8", and dipped in
        Vinyl coating, usually white, with a 1" heavy folded over edge
        on one side. I've made tiny porta-cages from even the 6" size.
 
    3.  4" to 8" Electrical plastic tie wraps, get lots, they're cheap
        and expendable, and definitely one-time usable. Minimum 15 for
        cage.
 
    4.  Couple of little chain-end clamps we all use for keeping hobs
        in cages, or car keys on belt-loops where ferrets can't steal
        them.
 
    This will cost you half as much as the worst store bought cage.
 
    Lay a plastic diffuser panel on the floor, shiny smooth side up, and
stand another against the adjacent wall.  The little prism thingies take a
real grip on carpet...  The first is the your new easily cleaned sanitary
cage bottom, and the second protects the wall from radiated whole hob
ferret yuk splatter grunge and whatever other stuff that happens.
 
    (If anyone learns how to cut that plastic diffuser stuff, please
tell me too, they would make super scratch-proofing at doors)
 
    You need 5 pieces of the closet shelving, two about 44", one 45-46",
and two about 18-20" long. (If you use an L16 16" piece for the top, then
the sides must be 15" or so). The top is 1-2 wires (inches) longer than
the front and back, and the sides are 1-2 wires shorter than the top.
 
    These pieces are L shaped, with the foot of the L just over an inch,
They're vinyl coated, 1" spaced welded wire construction. They are
chew-proof for several years, washable, and non-rusting.  Keep a watch
though, like anything else, there comes a time to replace it !
 
Cut the heavy (1/4") wires off close to the smaller (1/8") ones when
cutting to size, and DO NOT use the little plastic end caps, they won't
last 5 minutes and will HURT your fuzzy. Instead, cut close and sand,
grind, or file the burrs off. Knock your knee bone on a sharp corner
a time or two, and you'll rush right out to the hardware to get a file.
Heeeheeheh.
 
    The store will use a huge diagonal cutter on this stuff, but you can
use a hacksaw etc. if you want to re-size or improve a few cuts.
 
Assembly:
        Right and left ends: foot of L goes down and out.
        Front and back: foot of L goes up and in.
        Top: foot of L goes forward and down.
 
    In this configuration, if the front is raised 1/4" or so , the last
small wires on each piece fit together neatly with the sides. Tie-wrap
the mating pairs of small wires together three or four places on all
four corners.
 
    What you have with the top off is a FENCE, varying in shape from
flimsy rectangle to a parallelogram in a light breeze. Place the 45"
piece on top with the foot of the L to the front and down (good handle),
and use a few semi-loose tie-wraps to make a hinge at the back. Put it
on top of the plastic diffuser stuff, and when the top is down, the
wires of the top interlock with the front and back, making a very solid
structure. You can use a bungy or the clips to hold it down, although no
ferret (so far) has lifted it, especially 20" off the floor. The whole
thing is too heavy for fuzzies to move off the plastic bottom.
 
Lift top, insert some fuzzies, food, water, toys, tie on hammies. DON'T
drop this lid on anyone or leave it up so a climber's weight can make it
fall down.
 
Punch holes in upper edge of litter pan, loop tie wraps through holes.
Put litter pan near side of cage, tie wraps sticking out through wires,
and insert sawed off broom stick through the loops.  Litter pan stays
put, removes in a flash.
 
Vacation time... raise top, push sides flat, throw a few sheets of
plastic diffusers and flattened cage on car roof and go.  (Don't forget
bungy) If it doesn't flatten nicely, or it's still too big, just cut
the tie-wraps, stack the parts and replace them for $0.30 later.
 
Cleaning time... pick up whole cage (unless you're a fuzzie) carry
plastic to the tub or yard, add soap, turn on shower or hose and Wow,
Sanitation meets Cage bottom.
 
MegaDooks (ugh) Bob
       (   (
        )  )       __        .,.,.
       (  (     ,:~  '\.    (:o`o:)           Ann & Bob Martin
        )  )  / ::     `;,,/`. ^,'             Lynchburg, VA
       (     /.::.            ,'             [log in to unmask]
       )   .;:::::;.     .::;'   foo
          ,;:;:::::;.  .,::::             home of [ a Poco a Poco ]
   :.,,,;,;'  \;;;;:.'''   ':;,          LIFE Supreme Grand Champion
    ~''''         ``~'
[Posted in FML issue 1283]

ATOM RSS1 RSS2