FERRET-SEARCH Archives

Searchable FML archives

FERRET-SEARCH@LISTSERV.FERRETMAILINGLIST.ORG

Options: Use Forum View

Use Monospaced Font
Show Text Part by Default
Show All Mail Headers

Message: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Topic: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]
Author: [<< First] [< Prev] [Next >] [Last >>]

Print Reply
Subject:
From:
Kari Benson Toyer <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
The Ferret Mailing List (FML)
Date:
Wed, 3 Aug 1994 10:05:35 CDT
Content-Type:
text/plain
Parts/Attachments:
text/plain (149 lines)
Hello All,
 
I was struck by the idea that people can keep collars on their
fuzzies.  My Sunshine laughed at this (really, I heard her!), ;_).  I
spent one whole afternoon when she was a kit replacing and modifying
the collar with the the little bell.  Each time, about 10 minutes
later I would have to retrieve the !#*^&* collar from under the couch.
Even with the ferret world leash harness, with it just tight enough to
allow a finger under it, she will walk through it if I don't pay
attention.  She doesn't find slipping the leash comfortable; but, she
does it.  Our Shades is a bit better at the leash.  But, I can't even
imagine Shades putting up with a collar.
 
There has been much discussion lately about introductions.  I had
always heard and read that ferrets will get along famously in no time.
Not so for Shades and Sunshine!!  My husband joined me for the summer
with his new ferret Shades (a male), (we're doing the separate
grad school thang!!).  Anyhow, 4.5 year old female Sunshine was not
pleased.  Despite the size difference (he has over a pound on her) she
shrieks at him and kicks his little butt around the house.  Our
visions of them snuggling hasn't been realized in three months.  No
one has gotten hurt, but, she still shrieks at him, and chases him
around.  During the night, they take turns sneaking up on one another
and rousting the other from a sound sleep.  But, though they take
turns initiating, Shades always runs from her in the end.  I think
that they enjoy these chase games.  But, these interactions are not at
all what I expected from my snuggly little Sunshine, (she's nasty to
him!).  Summer is almost over and Shades and my husband will return to
grad school.  I think she will miss him when he is gone, but, she may
just be glad to have her home back!!
 
kari--
               --()       ______           Kari Toyer
             / o)  \     /      \    _      (and Sunshine!!)
            <____   \   /        \   \\
                 \   \_/          \   \\     (402) 472-6643
                  \        __      \ _//     [log in to unmask]
                   \      /  \  (   )_/
                    ||`--'    \__\ |
                   _||           _\|
 
 
  "Ferrets have two modes:     asleep...   and in trouble!!"
 
---------------------------------------
From: tle <[log in to unmask]>
Date:         Wed, 3 Aug 94 10:47 CDT
Subject:      bugs-prolapse-rabies
Submitted-Date: Wed Aug  3 11:55:50 EDT 1994
 
Hi All!
Bug Control -
I've seen ferrets eat roaches (also cats eat roaches) so
remember to clean up any dead bugs after using pesticides.
I recommend "roach motels" (safe for use around pets and
children) or double sided tape placed in strategic places
(inside cabinets, etc).  You may not get rid of the problem
quickly but at least your little ones will be safe.  The
lighted flea traps work the same way.  A sticky pad is
placed in the tray and the light is turned on - fleas are
attracted to the light and get stuck on the pad.  The new
ones are one piece (like a night light) and plug directly
into an outlet.  Of course, fleas are more of a problem for
your pet so you may need to use the "safer" pesticides
(pyrethrins) for their control.
 
Prolapsed Rectum -
This is NOT a normal condition and can be an indication of
illness even when the ferret is behaving normally and may
be contagious to other ferrets.  The few cases I've
experienced have been taken care of by antibiotics.  The
ferret needs to be seen by a vet, the sooner the better.
 
Rabies -
Living in the Midwest we hear a lot about skunk rabies, but
even so most humans don't panic.  I work at a University
and several times skunks have been "rescued" out of offices
when they'd inadvertently slipped in.  The skunks were more
afraid of the humans than the humans of the skunks.  Common
sense must apply in any situation.  In a rabies endemic
area it is advisable to be cautious, but there is no reason
for panic.  Domestic pets should be vaccinated and
contained.  The rabies vaccine is one of our most effective
vaccines and our best weapon for protection.  In parts of
the country, Texas for example, vaccine baited foods are
being used to control rabies in wildlife (coyotes).  It's
about time!  This practice has been used in Europe for
years.  In my view, this should have been done years ago
(with a killed vaccine, of course).  (Hmmm... if we are
able to control rabies then the Rabies Committees wouldn't
have jobs, would they.) Part of the fear of rabies is not
knowing what it is, how it's transmitted, or what
precautions can be taken.  The most important factor is
that there must be an exposure and transmission (bite by
rabid animal, introduction of infected saliva into open
wound or mucous membrane) to warrant concern.  If bitten by
a suspected rabid animal, the first thing to do is wash the
wound thoroughly with soap and water, then contact your
physician.  If the animal is unavailable for observation or
you don't want to use the "kill and test" method, you can
start post exposure treatment which consists of
vaccinations of 1 dose of HRIG (rabies immune globulins
that provide rapid, passive immune protection for a short
time - half-life of approximately 21 days) and 5 doses of
HDCV (rabies vaccines that induce an active immune response
that requires approximately 7-10 days to develop) over a
28-day period.  For adults the vaccine should be
administered IM (intramuscular) in the deltoid (shoulder)
area.  For children the anterolateral aspect of the thigh
is also acceptable.  Your local library should have books
on rabies.  Its time we learn more about this issue (as it
is the one that has deadly consequences for our beloved
ferrets) and speak out.  We need to pin the opposition
down.  Why are ferrets persecuted?  What do they need to
change "kill and test" recommendations?  What strains need
to be tested and why?  Unvaccinated Dogs and cats are
quarantined for 10-14 days regardless of whether they are
bitten by a skunk, fox, bat, or raccoon, and in some places
vaccinated and/or unvaccinated ferrets are killed.  Is it
more of a risk to be bitten by a house ferret (whether
vaccinated or not), than a free roaming dog or cat
(vaccinated or not), or agricultural animal?  I think not!
We don't have to take it anymore.  Its time to come out of
the closet.  If we band together (and we must be united) we
CAN change the way things are.  Colorado and Oregon instate
quarantine periods for ferrets that bite, if they can do it
so can other states.  Many veterinarians recommend
quarantine instead of the "kill and test" method for
ferrets.  The facts that there has never been a ferret-
human transmission and ONLY 16 cases of rabies in ferrets
compared to thousands and thousands in dogs, cats, and
livestock are very important.  That is proof in itself that
rabies is not a problem in ferrets.  The rabies issue is a
part of my daily life.  Every time I look into the trusting
eyes of my beloved ferrets I am reminded of how hard I must
fight to make this world safe for their kind.  And I will
until they are safe, or I die.
 
Hugs to all fuzzies!  tle
 
[Air-drop baits have been used in Canada for many years.
And the MOH is very agressive at going after outbreaks.
Still, Ontario has one of the highest incidences of rabies
in the world.  And this is not including raccoons - rabid
raccoons are still quite rare here.  Primary vectors/victims
are foxes, skunks, cats and dogs.]
 
[Posted in FML issue 0908]

ATOM RSS1 RSS2