Regarding normal weight loss patterns:
Intact ferrets have a normal weight loss and gain pattern that follows the
seasons. Normally they put on weight in the winter and lose it in the spring
and summer. The difference in weight can be as much as 40% of the total body
weight. However, in neutered animals, especially those neutered pre-weaning,
the weight fluctuations are generally much less dramatic. After they lose
their baby fat, they tend to have only a 10-20% fluctuation in weight from
winter to summer. If you are seeing prominent "hips" or ribs or backbone in
your ferret that are obviously noticeable, then there is probably a problem.
The most common reason in ferrets over 3 that we see the bones being
prominent like this in an otherwise happy and healthy pet is because of loss
of muscle tone due to adrenal disease. The muscles are not as thick as they
used to be due to an overabundance of hormones (each ferret is different, but
it may be an over abundance of estrogen like hormones or corticosteroids).
This lack of muscle tone will also lead to a "pot belly appearance" as the
abdominal muscle sag. The spleens of ferrets over 3 years of age are also
typically enlarged and this will add to the appearance of an enlarged saggy
abdomen. There are other conditions that can cause loss of body condition
such as foreign bodies in the stomach, lymphoma and other disease, but these
ferrets frequently are showing signs that they are ill. I HIGHLY recommend
having all ferrets over 3 years of age examined every 6 months by a qualified
vet rather than just annually because disease problems, especially cancer is
so common in the American ferret, and early intervention is the key to a
longer life.
Regarding Bedding for ferret litter boxes:
I am not a fan of kitty litter, as many ferrets will burrow in it and coat
their hair with it and get a dry, "Kitty Litter Coat" that accumulates dirt.
It is also not very biodegradible, and with 25 pets at home, I use a compost
bin and need to have as little trash as possible.
I am also not a fan of corn cob litter, as it is not incredibly absorbant,
the wetness stays at the top and at least in other animals, such as birds,
the fungal spores that it carries (Aspergilla in particular) can be a health
risk.
After looking at lots of products and using them all, I have come to the
conclusion that the pelleted products are the best for absorbency, odor
control and biodegradibility. The problem is that the pet stores haven't
caught onto this idea yet and some of these products can be hard to find.
Check with pet stores, feed stores, and local vets for these products. They
all have their pros and cons, some people like the smell of one better over
the other. The drawback that some people have is that they are more
expensive than the shavings or kitty litter. But the plus is that you don't
have to change them as often (just scoop out the poop), and they control odor
much better, they don't damage the haircoat, they are biodegradible (we
aren't adding more junk to the landfills) and they generally are using
recycled materials or otherwise non used materials. They are also excellent
for rabbits and rodents as they are softer on the feet, draw the moisture
away from the top and are digestible in case the pet wants to eat it (which
they usually don't).
Some of the products that we have used and liked are:
Cellu-Dri (cellulose bedding, my favorite, made for laboratories by Sheppard
Paper Company, Kalamazoo MI..check with a local laboratory facility)
Cat Country Litter or Critter Country (the same stuff, just different
packaging and size of pellet, Cat Country is usually cheaper...it is a wheat
grass pellet...probably the most easily found product in our area)
Gentle Touch - a pelleted aspen product...very fresh smell...the favorite
amongst our clients.
Yesterday's News - recycled paper product
There are many others available, but look for pelleted products and be
conservative with their use and the cost will not be prohibitive.
Susan A. Brown, D.V.M.
[Posted in FML issue 0764]
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