Questions from a recent posting forwarded to me with a demand I sit down
on my ass and answer! ;-)
 
Q: "Since everyone is concerned with protein levels, what do you think
about Totally Ferret Baby food for adult ferrets?"
 
A: Well, not EVERYONE *IS* concerned with "high protein levels."
Certainly, if a ferret is ill, a vet should be consulted before making
dietary changes, but that should be standard for ANY change.  In the
last decade, there has been perhaps a dozen incidences of cystine stones,
maybe up to two dozen, and in that same time period perhaps 10-15 million
ferrets alive (averaging 4-6 million ferrets per year).  Even if there
were hundreds of ferrets with cystine stones during that period of time,
the chances of any one ferret having the disease is extremely remote (it
is an autosomal recessive genetic disease).  If that remote chance
influences how we feed ferrets, then dump your dishwashers and clothes
dryers (I know of at least 20 ferrets killed by them), take doors off the
hinges (I know of at least a dozen ferrets killed by closing doors), and
dispose of kibble immediately (I know of hundreds of oral infections and
choking due to kibble, not to mention the associated insulinomas, dental
wear, and periodontal disease).  I think we have to be realistic about
the problem and treat SICK ferrets, NOT punish millions of healthy
ferrets because of the problems of a few.
 
Realistically, the chances of a ferret developing cystine stones is FAR
LESS than developing mineral stones, and how many people suggeste we
lower calcium in the diet to prevent those potentially lethal problems?
Kibble itself is a MAJOR problem in the formation of cystine stones
because is it dried to less than 10% moisture, and one of the universal
treatments for cystine stones is hydration.  Ferrets dehydrate rapidly,
and if a dehydrated ferret with cystine problems is on a kibble diet,
well, that is simply asking for trouble.  I'll get back to this subject
in a series of posts on cystine stones and kibble when I can get the time
(did you know a low protein diet with carbs can cause more problems than
one with higher protein?).  I am VERY busy at the moment, so busy I am
neglecting my friends and family, but I'll aim for early November.
 
Q: "Also, I just got the new formula of Natural Gold, and it has 5%
fiber.  Isn't that too much?"
 
A: No.  Personally, I think healthy ferrets can tolerate up to 10%
insoluble fiber in their diet, provided the diet is wet and the ferret
has water.  If a ferret eats a mouse or rat, the undigested portions that
make up the bulk of the stool run in at about 5% to 10% of the carcass.
Studies across the board (primates, rodents, ungulates, carnivores) show
bulk and fiber is beneficial to gastrointestinal health provided it does
not exceed (or fall below) evolutionary GI adaptations.
 
Q: "I don't know what the original formula had, but Rocky couldn't
tolerate it without having really runny, smelly poops."
 
A: That was one reason they changed the formula.  Get rid of the old
stuff.  Try the new.
 
Q: "8-in-1 Ultimate got a 10 point rating, but it has raisin juice in it.
Isn't that bad for ferrets with all the sugar?"
 
A: Raisin juice doesn't worry me nearly as much as how many carbohydrates
are in the food, and what percentage of that can be utilized by the
ferret.  If you look at the information provided by MOST foods, they
don't tell you how many carbs are in the food, nor how many are
digestible by the ferret.  I REALLY REALLY REALLY HATE kibble comparison
charts because they tend to reward foods that satisfy the person making
the chart.  For example, if someone thinks corn is bad for ferrets, then
any product with corn on the chart is demoted, while those with rice are
promoted.  However, in kibble both corn and rice are finely ground and
cooked, so they become primary sources of sugar.  One might be subtly
worse, but perhaps BOTH should be demoted.  Also, these charts ignore
other very important aspects of the food: micronutrients, amino and fatty
acid content, carbohydrate load, nucleotides, food particle size, fiber,
ash content, abrasive quality of the food, etc., etc., etc.  The problem
is food is a very complex mix of nutrients, so one food with corn might
actually be healthier for the ferret than one with rice or potato,
depending on the other ingredients.  It is VERY complex and a single
chart can't do it.  Ultimately, charts risk rewarding a poor food that
looks good on paper, while ignoring a good food that doesn't look as
good in the ingredient list.
 
Q: "Does feeding Chicken Gravy cause more dental problems?"
 
A: I have just analyzed more than 800 ferret, polecat, black-footed
ferret, and New Zealand feral ferret skulls, and they can easily be
grouped into two piles: those that eat kibble, and those that eat natural
prey.  KIBBLE causes extremely worn teeth and severe periodontal disease.
If a soft food (baby food, Bob's Chicken Gravy, moist food bits) causes
more dental tartar IN FERRETS, there hasn't been a paper published that
proves it scientifically.  Personally, I think if you are feeding a
ferret a liquid diet like Bob's Chicken Gravy, baby food, or duck soup,
the tartar accumulation IS moderately accelerated, but I honestly cannot
prove it statistically at this time.  Without a doubt, a soft diet with
toothbrushing is better than kibble.
 
There are three basic dental problems in ferrets: dental wear,
periodontal disease, and everything else.  Dental wear--in excess of
that seen in wild animals--is caused by kibble, and it is horrific.
Periodontal disease is caused by a lack of natural prey in the diet
(killing, cutting, and tearing acts like a natural toothbrush).  THAT
is why is it critically important to
1. BRUSH your ferrets teeth, and
2. Take your ferret to your vet for a DENTAL CHECKUP and CLEANING.
 
Q: "He loves that stuff, but I have not been too successful in brushing
his teeth (though believe me, I still try and I feel like I'm torturing
him)."
 
A: Try toothpastes for human infants/toddlers (they are non fluoridated);
mine like bubblegum.  What you are trying to do is brush off the nasties
on the sides of the teeth, so ANY paste helps--not just toothpaste.  I
place a small amount of petromalt, nutri-cal, or ferretvite on the front
of the toothbrush, followed with about twice as much toothpaste.  With
this method I've found ferrets will concentrate more on chewing the
toothbrush than trying to get loose.  The toothbrush may not last as
long, but the teeth are brushed.  I use a toothbrush for babies and each
ferret gets their own toothbrush to prevent transfer of oral bacteria.  I
toss the used toothbrush into a bowl containing 5 to 10% bleach to kill
bacteria, rinse, and then hang to dry.
 
If your ferret has bad breath, see a vet and DO NOT WAIT.  It could be
periodontal disease, a tooth abscess, or something else, such as gastric
ulcers, lung problems, liver or kidney disease, or even worse.  A ferret
can die from a gastric ulcer in a matter of minutes--it is far more
dangerous in ferrets than in humans for that reason.
 
Bob C  [log in to unmask]
[Posted in FML issue 4975]