>I am resending my original question as I am still unclear as to the
>length of quarantine.
 
Well, that's kind of a tough question.  The answer differs depending on
whether you want strict or practical quarantine.
 
What works for me is to keep the newbies separated until they have had a
chance to be checked out by the vet, and if necessary, have any existing
conditions cleared up.  This includes ADV checks, mite checks, fecal
checks, and examination of any other obvious internal illnesses.  It
doesn't hurt to give them a couple of weeks quarantine.  Not only does
this let them begin to adjust to their new surroundings - and you -
before the additional stress of meeting other ferrets, it also allows
time for any recently acquired diseases to show themselves.  The stress
of the new home itself can be enough to weaken their immune systems to
let in influenza and such.
 
The best place to quarantine them is in a spot your existing ferrets
never go, with a dead-zone or no-ferrets-land, in between.  You not only
want to protect your ferrets from the newbies, you also want to protect
the newbies from anything yours may be carrying.  Airborne illnesses
are only one concern, and are more minor than many.  There are other
illnesses and parasites that can only be passed by direct contact, by
contact with each others' wastes, or that can be carried by contact with
an intermediary - in other words, floors, bedding, and you.  This last
category includes ADV and ECE, and suggests that you should wash when
passing between groups, and don't share bedding, toys, towels, etc.
during the quarantine period.
 
It's not really practical to achieve strict quarantine as a private
owner.  For instance, ferrets previously infected with ECE can still be
spreading the virus 6-9 or months later.  I doubt you're going to want to
submit the newbies to a one year quarantine.  ADV-positive shelters have
to (responsibly, not legally) observe very strict quarantine requirements
that you will probably not observe at home - such as changing clothes and
washing with parvocide soaps before going out or handling ADV-negative
ferrets.  Your big worries are "simple" short-term diseases like
influenza; ECE; and ear mites.  Most of these you can cure before the
introductions happen; the ECE you can't do much about except be prepared
if it hits.  The good news about ECE is that a ferret who has had it
supposedly cannot get it again.
 
Finally, because it IS so difficult to achieve a good ADV quarantine,
it's best to ADV test the newbies before they even come into your home.
Don't panic if you can't - you aren't likely to get an ADV-positive
ferret.  But test them as soon as you can before the introductions begin.
 
So, in short, plan on getting them vet-checked as soon as possible, then
expect to quarantine for a week or two *after* they receive a clean bill
of health.
 
>When CB came to live with us he did bring a "gift" with him that
>resulted in Butch and Maggie being hospitalized for 3 full days in
>the ferret equivalent of ICU.
 
I'm guessing this was ECE.  If that was the case, your kids do not
have to worry about getting it from the newbies.  You do have to worry
about giving it TO the newbies, but the young ones usually get through
it easily.  Just be prepared to deal with it if you start seeing
bright-green or clear "slime" poops from the newbies.  There isn't much
you can do to prevent this happening if you end up adding ferrets who
haven't had it.  (Then again, Marshall Farms had a hell of a time with
this last year - many of their kits have now been exposed.)
 
roger & the wolverine wannabees
missing bear
[Posted in FML issue 4092]