There's several things to be more cautious of with older ferrets.
Ferrets are very, very creatures of habit and the older they get, the
more sensitive they become to environmental changes.  Abrupt changes in
environment can be devasting to an older ferret.  Something as innocent
as a new cage, even though it's better designed for elderly joints, can
be a major stress factor.  So make any such changes slowly.
 
In the cage example, you'd want to place the new, opened cage in their
play area to let them explore it for a few days during their out time.
Then, place things from their current cage in the new cage, like unwashed
bedding.  Put their food bowl and litter box in the new cage during
playtime for a week or so, always returning them to their old cage after
playtime.  Give them several weeks to learn to feel that the new cage is
something that belongs to them before moving them in completely.
 
Bear in mind, that your ferrets like things just the way they are.  The
house and everything and everyone in it belong to them and they don't want
things moved around, or moved out, or meddled with!  And the older they
get, the surer they are of that.
 
Oldsters are more sensitive to food changes also.  Tummies are a little
easier to upset.  You'll want to introduce them to a "treat" soup, if you
haven't already, so that when they're sick, you'll already have a
nutritious liquid diet that they'll readily accept.  The ideal soup for
this is a simple kibble soup made ONLY of their regular kibble and water.
Avoid additives that will alter the flavor that might be prohibited for
elderly illnesses.  Ensure - type additives are the number one thing to
AVOID, as it's wasted volume, no animal protein, filling the tummy without
providing balanced nutrients.  Bob Church's recipe is great, also (if you
don't mind buying blenders often and have the time to round up all those
ingredients and whip it up... but I'm way too lazy for that, lol).
 
Kaytee & Iams aren't my favorite ferret foods (see the food comparison
chart at http://www.ferretstore.com/ferfoodcomch.html).  Part of that
impressive 35% protein is counting the soy flour and kibbled corn,
proteins that go straight through a ferret without providing nutrition.
The ANIMAL protein percentage of Kaytee is probably closer to 28%, which
is just fine for older ferrets.  If they've been on it a long time and
are healthy, I would NOT make any major changes.  (We feed Totally Ferret,
Superior Choice &, believe it or not, Exceed cat food from Sam's Club
which is very close in content to Eukanuba Kitten for a third of the
price.) (Our cats are fat & sassy eating Mazuri Ferret Diet, which I
don't consider suitable as a primary food for ferrets, but it makes a
good treat for those that like the flavor.)
 
You'll have to watch them a little closer for pulling stunts that their
more brittle bones can't handle, like blocking off places they used to
climb safely.  And when they can't seem to make it to the litter box quick
enough, you'll need to cut down one side lower and maybe even replace
litter with just paper towels to provide more stable footing.
 
Watch for dental problems.  When their mouth gets sore, they won't eat
properly.  Reddened gums around teeth indicate an infection that needs
antibiotics and teeth cleaning.  Weekly "brushing" with an enzyme cat
toothpaste will help prevent a lot of that.
 
Debi Christy
Ferrets First Foster Home
 
Practical & easy training, care, & maintenance articles available at
http://www.geocities.com/ferretsfirst/
[Posted in FML issue 3787]